Saw this Pipe in a e-mail from Smoking Pipes, I would not purchase something like this to smoke. I suppose it might be good for a display but at $550 it busts my art budget.
Never been a big fan of modern art anyway, though they list it as art deco, which its not in my opinion
From our friends at SmokingPipes.com, Some "different looking" pipes
<<Werner Mummert is a German pipe maker that has a vast array of tools and techniques at his disposal. A skilled craftsman, and member of the European Wood Turner Association, Werner makes custome knives, pistol grips, and other objects from a variety of materials either by hand or with help from a CNC machine. His pipes speak of craftsmanship, especially his very craggy and beautiful sandblasting technique. Some of his stems are carved from a single piece of ebonite, while others use tenons from nylon.>> https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/werner-mummert/index.cfm
I recently won this Savinelli Lumberman pipe off of ebay. It's in good condition, though it's in dire need of a cleaning as I found the remnants of spider webbing in the bowl. One detail that throws me off is the shank. The color changes midway on the shank, but it doesn't look like it's a repair job. I'm not too worried about it, but it's interesting.
@thebadgerpiper The Savinelli “Lumberman” have a two piece shank from the factory. They can use smaller pieces of briar to get the long shank. The rustication camouflage’s the joint. I suspect they have a stainless steel inner tube for strength. They do not/are not suppose to come apart at that joint however.
@RockyMountainBriar Ah, that would explain it then. Thanks for solving that little mystery for me!
So far, I've given the Lumberman a wood soap wash and a salt treatment. Unfortunately, the wash revealed a small crack at the bottom of the shank. However, I think it should be fine, as the shank has a band on it that should solve the problem. I've never dealt with this before. It would be more disappointing had I not paid $25 for it. I won't know until I have it thoroughly cleaned and polished later this week.
@thebadgerpiper For very small tight shank cracks, I have used clear "SuperGlue" on the outside of the shank. If you use superglue, you need to stain the pipe first, if you do not, the superglue will fill the wood grain and it will no longer take stain. I put a small amount of the very thin or thin superglue on the crack and then very very very very carefully take a chopstick or something and "flex" the shank very very very slightly a few times at the shank to "suck" the glue into the crack. I use something other than the stem and undersized of the tenon so as not to take a chance of glueing the "flexer" in. *** BEWARE, THIS IS VERY TRICKY AND CAN COMPLETELY CRACK THE SHANK ***. I have used this method when I did NOT want to use a repair band. With the repair band, the crack should not be a problem, you could still apply the superglue to the outside of the shank under the band (if it comes off easily). You can carefully trim off the excess superglue with an Xacto knife after it is dry. I also use accelerator to set the superglue. For my pipes that have said cracks in shank, of which I have a few, I sand down my tenons so they fit just lightly snug. Most would consider them too loose. I prefer a "loose" tenon-shank joint....still tight enough that the stem does not fall out when cold though. There is less chance of cracking a shank when the pipe is warm with a "loose" tenon. To each his own If things go badly (not to wish anything bad), but the shank can probably be repaired with a stainless steel liner. I have made and repaired a couple of shanks that had completely cracked away, that I still had the broken piece of briar. I had bought a few broken pipes in lots to be repaired.
Thanks for the info @RockyMountainBriar ! Right now, my plan is just to clean it up and give it a good polish and see how it handles with the first few smokes. If it ends up being an issue, I'll follow that and see if it helps. I think it should be good with the band in place, but that's good knowledge to know.
That is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.......Pipes are tools, and "form follows function".....these ideas are like someone redesigning a hammer or a chisel.
I have always wanted a Meerschaum “Dragon” figural pipe that actually looked like a dragon. I think I found one...even better it’s two dragons. Too bad it is way out of my price range.
Comments
Some "different looking" pipes
<<Werner Mummert is a German pipe maker that has a vast array of tools and techniques at his disposal. A skilled craftsman, and member of the European Wood Turner Association, Werner makes custome knives, pistol grips, and other objects from a variety of materials either by hand or with help from a CNC machine. His pipes speak of craftsmanship, especially his very craggy and beautiful sandblasting technique. Some of his stems are carved from a single piece of ebonite, while others use tenons from nylon.>>
https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/werner-mummert/index.cfm
Pipesart.com- Newsletter 137 Introducing Arcangelo Ambrosi
What exactly is an E-pipe ?
http://www.aspipes.org/what-exactly-is-an-e-pipe/The Savinelli “Lumberman” have a two piece shank from the factory. They can use smaller pieces of briar to get the long shank. The rustication camouflage’s the joint. I suspect they have a stainless steel inner tube for strength. They do not/are not suppose to come apart at that joint however.
So far, I've given the Lumberman a wood soap wash and a salt treatment. Unfortunately, the wash revealed a small crack at the bottom of the shank. However, I think it should be fine, as the shank has a band on it that should solve the problem. I've never dealt with this before. It would be more disappointing had I not paid $25 for it. I won't know until I have it thoroughly cleaned and polished later this week.
For very small tight shank cracks, I have used clear "SuperGlue" on the outside of the shank. If you use superglue, you need to stain the pipe first, if you do not, the superglue will fill the wood grain and it will no longer take stain. I put a small amount of the very thin or thin superglue on the crack and then very very very very carefully take a chopstick or something and "flex" the shank very very very slightly a few times at the shank to "suck" the glue into the crack. I use something other than the stem and undersized of the tenon so as not to take a chance of glueing the "flexer" in. *** BEWARE, THIS IS VERY TRICKY AND CAN COMPLETELY CRACK THE SHANK ***. I have used this method when I did NOT want to use a repair band. With the repair band, the crack should not be a problem, you could still apply the superglue to the outside of the shank under the band (if it comes off easily). You can carefully trim off the excess superglue with an Xacto knife after it is dry. I also use accelerator to set the superglue. For my pipes that have said cracks in shank, of which I have a few, I sand down my tenons so they fit just lightly snug. Most would consider them too loose. I prefer a "loose" tenon-shank joint....still tight enough that the stem does not fall out when cold though. There is less chance of cracking a shank when the pipe is warm with a "loose" tenon. To each his own
If things go badly (not to wish anything bad), but the shank can probably be repaired with a stainless steel liner. I have made and repaired a couple of shanks that had completely cracked away, that I still had the broken piece of briar. I had bought a few broken pipes in lots to be repaired.
That is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.......Pipes are tools, and "form follows function".....these ideas are like someone redesigning a hammer or a chisel.
I saw that pipe awhile back on SP.com. That pipe IS a Dunhill Microphone pipe. A very, very, ah hell, very expensive pipe😳
Ahh...chump change😬. I wish!
Nope, not just you. In fact, I might have used a stronger term. To each his own.
I have no words...🤔