I then found a hairline crack on the bottom of the shank that went almost to the bowl. So it then became a new challenge. Started by cutting the shank to good wood, then I made a shank extension before a final stem fitting. You can see the really bad spots on the stummel, so I penciled in a basic shape to rusticate and hopefully make it more acceptable to the eye:
Rusticated the bad area, stained that area with a tan, oxblood, black combo, then stained the rest of the pipe buckskin & oxblood. Waxed, buffed, etc. and here's the final:
And now for the reason this is an "experimental" pipe. As you already know, this is a cheap pipe, and so I didn't want to use my expensive rods for a shank extension. So I decided to improvise. I created an extension using one of my nylon bushings I already had, like the one pictured below. I will be giving it a good workout in the near future to see how it holds up.
After hand sanding the shank to match the extension, I knew I would have to strip the entire stummel. As I did so, I realized how interesting the grain was, so I gave it a much lighter finish than the original dark stain to show it off better. Anyway, long to short, here's the final:
I bought a few project Dr. Grabows. Here are pictures of the first. Any wisdom on how to get this stem to fit better? As seen in picture 3 if tightened until tight it over rotates.
@Whoispra You have to heat gun the metal thread on the stem, being careful not to overheat and melt the base of the stem, until it softens the glue on the threaded section. Then twist it with a pair of needle nosed pliers periodically until it finally starts to rotate. You must then turn it to compensate for overclocking. However, turn it such that it will be ever so slightly underclocked. When it thoroughly cools, it should just about be where you want it...
@Whoispra Some Dr. Grabows have a stem that can be clocked back into place by turning it clockwise until it lines up again, called “Ajustomatic”. I have had a few, but when I tried to “time” them, they did not move. Well, several years later, I had plenty of pipes that were “better” than Dr. Grabows, so I tried to re-clock the stem on some of my old Grabow’s. I wrenched the hell out of it. Lo and Behold, the stem turned and I was able to time it again. It was freaking scary the amount of force it took. I thought for sure either the shank or stem would be obliterated, but all was fine with the world….well…..the pipes anyway.
Here is an excerpt I found on another forum:
Bingo! That's how you fix a Grabow ( and a Willard)-- AS LONG as it is an AJUSTOMATIC. Can't use that procedure on an old Linkmans. Sometimes the tenon will have to be heated a couple of times to get the Ajusto to break loose and work as it should. When an Ajusto is working properly it can turned clockwise at any time to correct over or under turning--they are made to do that. If it's off just screw it in and keep cranking it around till it lines up--hot or cold. 99.99% of Grabows, Willards and Adventurers and a few oddballs, made since about 1955 with a screw in stem have the Ajustomatic feature--even if the pipe does not have the Ajustomatic stamping.
Comments
Started by cutting the shank to good wood, then I made a shank extension before a final stem fitting.
You can see the really bad spots on the stummel, so I penciled in a basic shape to rusticate and hopefully make it more acceptable to the eye:
Waxed, buffed, etc. and here's the final:
As you already know, this is a cheap pipe, and so I didn't want to use my expensive rods for a shank extension. So I decided to improvise.
I created an extension using one of my nylon bushings I already had, like the one pictured below.
I will be giving it a good workout in the near future to see how it holds up.
Another bell ringer.
Reminds me of the pipe you reworked and sent me a couple of years ago….
The problem? A 1" hairline crack in the shank.
Sanding became the next step:
As I did so, I realized how interesting the grain was, so I gave it a much lighter finish than the original dark stain to show it off better.
Anyway, long to short, here's the final:
Another incredible save, Brother.
You have to heat gun the metal thread on the stem, being careful not to overheat and melt the base of the stem, until it softens the glue on the threaded section. Then twist it with a pair of needle nosed pliers periodically until it finally starts to rotate.
You must then turn it to compensate for overclocking.
However, turn it such that it will be ever so slightly underclocked. When it thoroughly cools, it should just about be where you want it...
Great advise from the sage of pipe restorers, @KA9FFJ.
Some Dr. Grabows have a stem that can be clocked back into place by turning it clockwise until it lines up again, called “Ajustomatic”. I have had a few, but when I tried to “time” them, they did not move. Well, several years later, I had plenty of pipes that were “better” than Dr. Grabows, so I tried to re-clock the stem on some of my old Grabow’s. I wrenched the hell out of it. Lo and Behold, the stem turned and I was able to time it again. It was freaking scary the amount of force it took. I thought for sure either the shank or stem would be obliterated, but all was fine with the world….well…..the pipes anyway.
Here is an excerpt I found on another forum:
Bingo! That's how you fix a Grabow ( and a Willard)-- AS LONG as it is an AJUSTOMATIC. Can't use that procedure on an old Linkmans.
Sometimes the tenon will have to be heated a couple of times to get the Ajusto to break loose and work as it should. When an Ajusto is working properly it can turned clockwise at any time to correct over or under turning--they are made to do that. If it's off just screw it in and keep cranking it around till it lines up--hot or cold.
99.99% of Grabows, Willards and Adventurers and a few oddballs, made since about 1955 with a screw in stem have the Ajustomatic feature--even if the pipe does not have the Ajustomatic stamping.
Informative and entertaining.
Thank you for the information about AJUSTOMATIC fittings!
(Part of me wants to know why they dropped the D.)