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Pipe refinishing

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  • @KA9FFJ
    Ok, now that there is one beautiful refurb. Awesome choice of color, shape, and execution of stem too😍
    That’s a pipe somebody will love…you’ll have to beat her “suitors” off with a stick if you decide she can “remarry”.  Make sure you get a decent dowery if you do🙂
    She looked “well loved”, maybe even rode hard and put away wet. Maybe the nomenclature has been buffed off.  It could easily be a Knute, or some other Danish master.  The seem to stamp the bottom of the shank rather than the sides.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    @RockyMountainBriar
    Agreed. The 1st place I looked was the bottom of the shank... nothing... ???
    🤔
  • motie2motie2 Master

    Tobacco pipe craftsmen typically "sign" their creations in several ways:

    1. Stamping: Many pipe makers stamp their name, logo, or initials directly onto the pipe, usually on the stem or shank. This is a common method for briar pipes.

    2. Engraving: Some craftsmen engrave their mark or signature into the pipe material. This can be done on various parts of the pipe, including the bowl or stem.

    3. Decorative elements: Artisans may incorporate unique decorative designs or motifs that serve as their signature style. These can include specific patterns, shapes, or symbols that are recognizable as the work of a particular maker.

    4. Impressed marks: Clay pipe makers often impressed their initials, symbols, or the names of towns into the clay before firing. This method was widely used in Europe and helped identify the maker or region of origin.

    5. Maker's marks: Some craftsmen use specific marks or symbols that represent their workshop or brand. These can be stamped, engraved, or incorporated into the pipe's design.

    6. Documentation: High-end or custom pipes may come with certificates of authenticity or documentation that includes the maker's signature and details about the pipe.

  • PappyJoePappyJoe Master
    @motie2 has covered all the usual things craftsmen do to sign their pipes. 
    As for pipe factories, they have adopted the premise of "If we don't stamp our pipes no one will know it's our pipe."

    Usually when i come across a pipe with no stamping on the briar it is one of three things.
    1. The stamping was there but the pipe has been polished so often that the stamping is no longer visible. I will say that this is seen more often on the stems, but I do have some estate pipes that the stamping is barely visible. 
    2. The pipe was one carved by a talented beginner pipe carver who did not know how to stamp the pipe or didn't think it was necessary at the time. 
    3. There is a flaw in the pipe or the carver was dissatisfied with the finished product so he didn't want to put any identifiable marks on it.

    That being said, the first thing I thought of when I saw it was that it is a nice looking Danish freehand pipe. 
    The second thing I thought was that I have only seen darkened areas like that on briars that were in danger of burning throughs. The later photos showed that it must have just been dirt. 
  • opipemanopipeman Master
    @KA9FFJ;
    Excellent restoration. If I was interested in buying another pipe....that would be it.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    @PappyJoe
    I brought the inside of the bowl down to near briar, and upon very close examination, found no signs of near burn out anywhere. I also used a dental pick to lightly test the integrity of the bowl... All is good.
    You were correct. The outside of the stummel was simply subject to extensive dirt and grime.
    Again, I'd rather be lucky than good...😏
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 18
    Finished another noname. 
    This pipe was definitely used for English blends. Even after taking it down to the briar, the English blend aroma was coming through.
    Although I could use @PappyJoe method (which really works quite well by the way), I'm simply going to let it be and give full disclosure to any potential buyer about the slight ghosting.
    I'm guessing, but about 1/3 of attendees of the show do English blends, so my chances are good to make a sale despite the ghosting...
    Anyway, the original stummel (after turning a stem) is pictured top, 1st column:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Here it is now:

  • @KA9FFJ ypu did a great job with the contrast in the staining.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 20
    Completed a Stanwell #146 stummel.
    Here's the before after rough turning a stem to fit. It's the top pipe, second column:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Here's the final:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Just turned another stummel into a functional pipe.
    This one is a Sabre pipe. The best I understand, they are created in a pipe factory in Jerusalem?.?. And have previously been owned by different companies (a little help please).
    Anyway, after adding a stem, cleaning, spot staining,  etc. etc., here's the final:


  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    One of the 6 stummels I recently acquired is a Savinelli Oscar 121 ks.
    First order of business (after fitting a stem) was to clean the internals, then strip the outside of all the grime, dirt and charring build up.


  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Had some issues that were going to have to be dealt with or worked around:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Those small marks on the bowl were not dents, so I knew moist heat was not going to work to bring them out so I decided on a two-fold plan.
    Light sanding and 2-tone staining (which it originally had anyway) to help make the flaws less noticeable.
    So that eventually resulted in this:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 26
    Once it set and I gave it an alcohol wipe, it was time to add a second tan/oxblood stain:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Again, once it dried and set, another alcohol wipe.
    Then came the waxing, buffing, etc.
    Here's the final:


  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Under a more direct light, the colors and patterns become more obvious:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    So here are the 6 stummels now restored and ready to begin a new life:

  • @KA9FFJ
    A nice bevy of restored pipes.👍🏻
  • PappyJoePappyJoe Master
    @KA9FFJ
    I like how you protected the stamping on that Savinelli.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    You're correct @PappyJoe
    I figure there's no reason to believe me that it is, in fact, a Savinelli without the stamping to prove it...
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Well, after much personal debate, I've decided to keep that red-stemmed Stanwell #141 that was part of the above group.
    Every now and then I redo a pipe that I know it would give me more joy to keep and smoke than to sell.
    I have always tended to lean toward Danish style pipes. I also have my share of "classic" shaped pipes, but this one will go in my humble collection.
    The rest?... put away for the February STL Pipe show...


  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Golfing buddy gave me a couple of pipes to work on. Both of them had very loose fitting stems.
    When I got them yesterday, they were a mess! He rarely EVER cleans his pipes, and so there were a lot more issues than a loose stem.
    The first one WAS a lavot that he had taped the stem to the shank.
    After removing the tape and partially sanding it down, I discovered this:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited August 14
    Whoever drilled the mortise drilled it off center and left the thinnest of briar on the top side of the shank. Even if it could have been repaired, it would not have held.
    After calling him, off came the bad section:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    I then had to redrill a new CENTERED mortise:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    I then took an old stem I had (the original stem would now be way too short) and turned the tenon to fit:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    After a good tight fit, I then sanded down the stem to match the shank:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited August 14
    Long story short, here's the pipe now. By the way, it was a cheap little noname pipe, but even they deserve some TLC...🙂

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