Was given a stummel at the pipe show and asked to make a stem for it. It has an oval shank, and though I have some oval stems, none were quite big enough for the job. So I took a round saddle stem, turned the tenon to a good fit, then reshaped the stem to match the oval shank. Here's right after basic shaping:
No projects on the horizon here but you boys are doing good work. I never did any additional work on the comoy tradition with the silver band. I cleaned it up and started smoking it. Smokes good and looks decent. Rim could stand to be finished but probably won't take it any further.
Was given a Savinelli that had 3 MAJOR bite grooves plus a hole about 1/8" diameter. It wasn't pretty. I was going to replace the stem but didn't have a saddle stem close to the right length or size, so I decided to repair it. After cleaning and prepping the areas, I created a vulcanite mix and applied it liberally to the areas on both sides...
While allowing 24 hours for the stem to completely set up, I cleaned the stummel. It had a lot of hand oils and grim build up, as well as a lot of rim build up...
@Mapletop was at the STL pipe show and gifted me with a bag of raw stummels. I selected one and, after a light sanding and cleaning, I decided to place 2 lines on the stummel. If you know me you can probably guess why...
The base coat of black staining is done and waiting to dry before I give it a good alcohol wipe. Visiting my brother in law today. He has dementia and I will be there most of the day. So I will continue this project when I return... stay tuned.😏
The Doodler pipe has a unique place in the history of smoking pipes. It was originally made by Mincer, and production continued after the mid-1960s when the National Briar Pipe Co., Inc. took over. The Doodler is known for its distinctive design, featuring holes and rings throughout the bowl that are used for cooling, making it a ventilated pipe. Some Doodler pipes also featured silver bands. The Doodler's unconventional design and ventilation system set it apart from traditional pipes, making it a distinctive and sought-after piece for collectors and enthusiasts. The line was last made in 1980, and it remains a notable example of American pipe craftsmanship.
The asking price for a Doodler pipe today varies. On some online platforms, the price is listed at $28.99. However, the actual price can differ based on the specific condition, age, and rarity of the Doodler pipe. In one forum discussion, a mention is made of a $6 price tag for a Doodler pipe, indicating that prices can vary widely. Additionally, the value of a Doodler pipe can be influenced by factors such as its history and demand among collectors. Therefore, it's recommended to explore various sources and consider the specific attributes of the Doodler pipe in question when determining its price.
When I thoroughly washed and cleaned the above stummel, I failed to mention a very, very slight dampness was detected inside the bowl directly opposite one of the pits on the side of the bowl. You know what that means... the flaw, however small and minute, was coming through from the outside of the bowl. First, I partially filled the 2 prominent flaws on the outside with briar dust and black super glue. I didn't level fill them since I was going to be rusticating the area anyway. Next I needed to address the inside of the bowl. Now, when you need a sealant material that's heat resistant, playable, malible and can stick to the walls of the bowl as thick as you deam necessary, I have a recipe that has served me well for a lot of years. Here's what you'll need: First: A kitchen scale that does grams and a container for weighing and mixing. I use a small tool tray from Harbor Frieght (easy for mixing and cleans up easily). Some plaster of Paris, activated charcoal and cigar ash:
And now for the recipe: 4 gr plaster of Paris 2.4 gr activated charcoal 2 gr cigar ash Note: the above will easily make enough for 2 pipes. For one pipe, simply cut the amounts in half. Sorry, didn't mean to insult your intelligence with that last statement. There are some who replace the cigar ash with salt claiming it to be an activating agent. I personally have not found that to be the case. It actually tends to make the "mud" grainy which makes it more difficult to spread evenly, and gives an odd taste to at least the first 5-10 bowls. Anyway, once all measured and dry-mixed thoroughly, add drops of distilled water while stirring until you reach a thick paste ( not too thin). After putting a pipe cleaner into the draft hole to prevent blockage, carefully use a stirring stick and apply all along the edges of the inside bowl. Then, using my little finger, I start evening it out along the inside of the bowl until I am happy with the coverage. Allow 24 hrs to completely set, and then smoke your little heart out...🙂
Here's another stummel gifted to me by @mapletop. I'll try to keep my processes short. I started by cleaning the stummel, then took about an inch off the shank (bad spot). Next I drilled the mortise. The draft hole had already been drilled. I was left with 3 major pit spots, which I later filled.
Since we're not talking a super grained pipe, I looked for a not so great stem. Found a stem that had a flat spot spot on it. I shortened the stem by an inch which almost totally eliminated the flat spot. Naturally I had to turn and fit the tenon. You can still see a hint of what's left of the flat spot in the second pic.
Forgot. Before staining, I also chamfered the rim. I agree with @RockyMountainBriar that little change on the rim can help to dress up the look a bit. Anyway, waxed, buffed, polished and here's the final:
Here is a pipe I reworked a while back. It became one of 3 pipes that I didn't like how the stem looked with the pipe. It was too long and the ornate workings were just too overpowering for the pipe.
So I had another stem that was made for a square shank. I belt sanded it from a square to a cylinder, and finished it on the lathe. Then I shortened the base of the stem a little over 3/4" shorter than the previous stem. I am so glad I took the trouble to do that. To me the pipe looks much better and, most importantly, it won't bother me anymore...
I think the original red stem (it really pops, for me anyway) would look really good too, if you turned down the “fancy balls/beads” on your lathe to a shape similar to a Savinelli/Peterson/WDC stem, just a flowing tapered cone. Something like this, although not quite as pronounced as the Savinelli pictured.
Comments
Tnx buddy.
Here's right after basic shaping:
Here's the final:
I was going to replace the stem but didn't have a saddle stem close to the right length or size, so I decided to repair it.
After cleaning and prepping the areas, I created a vulcanite mix and applied it liberally to the areas on both sides...
I'll see your amazing and raise you two mighty fines.
If you know me you can probably guess why...
Visiting my brother in law today. He has dementia and I will be there most of the day. So I will continue this project when I return... stay tuned.😏
Here's the final:
I got no more adjectives to describe your work. To say it is good, just understates your craftsmanship.
Best looking Doodler I’ve seen in my web wandering.
@motie2
Unless I misunderstand your post, the above pipe is not a Doodler.🙂
The Doodler pipe has a unique place in the history of smoking pipes. It was originally made by Mincer, and production continued after the mid-1960s when the National Briar Pipe Co., Inc. took over. The Doodler is known for its distinctive design, featuring holes and rings throughout the bowl that are used for cooling, making it a ventilated pipe. Some Doodler pipes also featured silver bands. The Doodler's unconventional design and ventilation system set it apart from traditional pipes, making it a distinctive and sought-after piece for collectors and enthusiasts. The line was last made in 1980, and it remains a notable example of American pipe craftsmanship.
I knew I could count on you to fill in the gaps, which you do amazingly...👍🏻
First, I partially filled the 2 prominent flaws on the outside with briar dust and black super glue. I didn't level fill them since I was going to be rusticating the area anyway.
Next I needed to address the inside of the bowl. Now, when you need a sealant material that's heat resistant, playable, malible and can stick to the walls of the bowl as thick as you deam necessary, I have a recipe that has served me well for a lot of years.
Here's what you'll need:
First: A kitchen scale that does grams and a container for weighing and mixing. I use a small tool tray from Harbor Frieght (easy for mixing and cleans up easily).
Some plaster of Paris, activated charcoal and cigar ash:
4 gr plaster of Paris
2.4 gr activated charcoal
2 gr cigar ash
Note: the above will easily make enough for 2 pipes. For one pipe, simply cut the amounts in half. Sorry, didn't mean to insult your intelligence with that last statement.
There are some who replace the cigar ash with salt claiming it to be an activating agent. I personally have not found that to be the case. It actually tends to make the "mud" grainy which makes it more difficult to spread evenly, and gives an odd taste to at least the first 5-10 bowls.
Anyway, once all measured and dry-mixed thoroughly, add drops of distilled water while stirring until you reach a thick paste ( not too thin).
After putting a pipe cleaner into the draft hole to prevent blockage, carefully use a stirring stick and apply all along the edges of the inside bowl. Then, using my little finger, I start evening it out along the inside of the bowl until I am happy with the coverage. Allow 24 hrs to completely set, and then smoke your little heart out...🙂
I'll try to keep my processes short.
I started by cleaning the stummel, then took about an inch off the shank (bad spot).
Next I drilled the mortise. The draft hole had already been drilled.
I was left with 3 major pit spots, which I later filled.
Found a stem that had a flat spot spot on it. I shortened the stem by an inch which almost totally eliminated the flat spot. Naturally I had to turn and fit the tenon.
You can still see a hint of what's left of the flat spot in the second pic.
Anyway, waxed, buffed, polished and here's the final:
Then I shortened the base of the stem a little over 3/4" shorter than the previous stem.
I am so glad I took the trouble to do that. To me the pipe looks much better and, most importantly, it won't bother me anymore...
Nice.
I think the original red stem (it really pops, for me anyway) would look really good too, if you turned down the “fancy balls/beads” on your lathe to a shape similar to a Savinelli/Peterson/WDC stem, just a flowing tapered cone. Something like this, although not quite as pronounced as the Savinelli pictured.