I have another couple that I got a few weeks ago. I have been looking for one of the little WDC vest pocket pipes for awhile. It should clean up nicely, I just need to tighten the stem/tenon slightly. The billiard is a Comoy’s Guildhall. I bought it with the need to fix the bit, but the ding-dong el cheapo sent the pipe in a bubble envelope with the stem still attached. The tenon snapped off, big surprise there....damn it to hell, some people’s kids. Luckily it did not crack the shank. Now I have to decide if I am going to fix the stem? The three bars Guildhall stem logo is non-existent, so I am not sure it is the original stem. It fits perfectly, so it is either the original, or a very well made replacement? I may just fit/make a new one?
A serious question for my Pipe Refinishing Friends. One of my Bones Pipes (Fat Author) has developed some charing at the outside of the rim due to winter smoking (lighting) in the wind. Being bare briar (with a great developing patina) can I use something to remove the carbon? I don't know if Paint Thinner, Naptha, Solvent, Etc. would remove the burn areas. The worst that would happen in my mind might be he loss of some patina, although I have to think the patina develops from inside to the outside? Obviously if I do that I mwill need to allow time so as not to burn my beard off. Any suggestions, including sanding. This might be a real advantage to having unfinished pipes? Any comments , suggestions, opinions are appreciated.
@pwkarch Try this, no guarantees, but it has worked for me in the past. Load a stiff nylon brush with Murphy's Wood Soap. Vigorously scrub the area and allow it to sit for a couple of minutes. Then give it another good scrubbing before placing the scrubbed portion of the pipe under running water while continuing to scrub the wood soap completely from the pipe. Use a cloth to give any areas left a good rubbing to see if more affected areas can be removed. Once finished, if your still not satisfied, short of lightly sanding those areas, I'm at a loss. That is to say, I don't know anything about paint thinners, etc. Oh, you might want to stuff the bowl with a paper towel or cork to keep as much soap out of the bowl as possible...
Thanks Buddy, it just makes me mad to see the burn. I have since acquired a Zippo Pipe Insert that hopefully will obviate this happening again. I am going to try your method. The fact that there is no "finish" on the pipe, and if my theory is correct that the "patina" would actually run the thickness of the briar (?), it would be worth the try. Semper fi Marine.
@pwkarch If it is charring, it’s “bone” deep, only sanding will take that off. You may want to just leave it, or barely scrape away the soft charred parts. I think I would, it’s truly patina, just a different sort🙂. The reason I suggest scraping away the char is that it might act like “char cloth” and actually be easier to set alight. Char cloth is used as fire tinder. Also, I have refurbished some really old heavily smoked pipes that I have had to “top”, the wood has always been lighter, even after a light rim topping. I’m pretty sure that if you try to sand it even a small amount, you will end up with a lighter colored rim. Just my $1.40.....inflation😉
I am at odds as to what to do. I can buy another at not break the bank. I just LOVE this guy, he smokes SO WELL. I really don't care that it is charred so m uch as mad at myself for letting it happen. Since I got my Zippo Pipe insert things are better.
@pwkarch I know what you mean, I was lighting a brand new Brigham Canadian with a soft flame pipe lighter and barely touched the rim (I don’t see up close so well anymore without “cheaters”). It bubbled the clear finish in a tiny pinhole spot on the rim😖. By the way, I hate that finish, I think it is what makes the pipe smoke hot?
It looks really nice though, well....except for where it bubbled🙁.
Those Bones pipes are suppose to exude a rough and tumble, been through the ringer, get-er-done vibe anyway, right? They are one of the few bare pipes I like. Some of the Savinelli bare pipes are cool too. I don’t have either one....yet. I think I would buy a Bones pipe first, probably a dublin.
@Beetleman I use Loctite 380 “Black Max”. It is a black “superglue” that is toughened, meaning it is not as brittle. After filing/sanding down and buffing/polishing, it blends in very well. Some others use a blend of charcoal powder and “superglue” or maybe epoxy, I am not sure. I think @KA9FFJ may use or has used the charcoal powder method?
@Beetleman I'm in the same corner with @RockyMountainBriar Make sure you put a touch of vaseline on a pipe cleaner or coffee stirrer stick and insert and leave it to prevet any Loctite from seeping into the draw hole, then naturally remove it once the Loctite has set up... The challenging part is making sure both surfaces are absolutely clean and vaseline free to insure maximum results...
@Beetleman I usually carve a small piece of balsa wood to keep the bit open, then just drill and file it out, it removes easily without maybe getting Vaseline where the Loctite needs to stick. I especially use it when I have to epoxy a missing chunk of bit in and cover it with the Loctite. I have a "funneling tool" from Vermont Freehand that works great to remove the balsa or open/form a bit airway. I think it is actually a clay carving/sculpting tool? It looks like a fine helical cut toothed file.
First, I gave it a good cleaning with 2 applications of Murphy oil soap. Considering a sanding to get the stummel a little lighter shade to help blend in the pit fills... I also have the inner bowl in pretty good shape now...
Phase 2: Alcohol wipe. Sanding the pipe to remove some of the black. Restained with a blend of yellow, ox blood and medium brown. Another alcohol bath. Then waxing, buffing and polishing. The pit fills don't seem to be near as obvious now IMHO..Anyway, the stummel is complete. Now on to the stem...
That is a bit different, interesting grain pattern on the left flank, two bird’s eyes with swirls (black holes, doorways to other dimensions perhaps?),
its not perfect, but I was able to make a silver band to hold that broken stem together. I would have loved if I could have gotten it more flush, but it is pretty strong on the break and I can finally smoke it.
I did a refurb today on an estate Savinelli Double Filter pipe. The draft hole had been augured out to where the first filter would slip too close to the tobacco chamber. I had to drill it out to 3/8” then install a briar sleeve in the shank. All, better🙂. I always wondered if the stem would fit fine in the first joint to make a “nose warmer”, it does👍🏻 Now I would like to know if it was meant to be smoked with two 9mm carbon filters, or two 9mm balsa filters, or one of each. If one of each, which filter was installed near the bowl, and which near the stem, or did it really matter? I would love to see some original ephemera for it, alas, I have not found any.
My first thought would be to try it with no filters! I've always tossed the filters and stingers that come with pipes they can only take away from the tobacco in the chamber.
Comments
Try this, no guarantees, but it has worked for me in the past.
Load a stiff nylon brush with Murphy's Wood Soap. Vigorously scrub the area and allow it to sit for a couple of minutes. Then give it another good scrubbing before placing the scrubbed portion of the pipe under running water while continuing to scrub the wood soap completely from the pipe.
Use a cloth to give any areas left a good rubbing to see if more affected areas can be removed.
Once finished, if your still not satisfied, short of lightly sanding those areas, I'm at a loss. That is to say, I don't know anything about paint thinners, etc.
Oh, you might want to stuff the bowl with a paper towel or cork to keep as much soap out of the bowl as possible...
Something like this is what I'm talking about...
Thanks Buddy, it just makes me mad to see the burn. I have since acquired a Zippo Pipe Insert that hopefully will obviate this happening again. I am going to try your method. The fact that there is no "finish" on the pipe, and if my theory is correct that the "patina" would actually run the thickness of the briar (?), it would be worth the try. Semper fi Marine.
👍
If it is charring, it’s “bone” deep, only sanding will take that off. You may want to just leave it, or barely scrape away the soft charred parts. I think I would, it’s truly patina, just a different sort🙂. The reason I suggest scraping away the char is that it might act like “char cloth” and actually be easier to set alight. Char cloth is used as fire tinder. Also, I have refurbished some really old heavily smoked pipes that I have had to “top”, the wood has always been lighter, even after a light rim topping. I’m pretty sure that if you try to sand it even a small amount, you will end up with a lighter colored rim. Just my $1.40.....inflation😉
I am at odds as to what to do. I can buy another at not break the bank. I just LOVE this guy, he smokes SO WELL. I really don't care that it is charred so m uch as mad at myself for letting it happen. Since I got my Zippo Pipe insert things are better.
Thanks for the info.......
I know what you mean, I was lighting a brand new Brigham Canadian with a soft flame pipe lighter and barely touched the rim (I don’t see up close so well anymore without “cheaters”). It bubbled the clear finish in a tiny pinhole spot on the rim😖. By the way, I hate that finish, I think it is what makes the pipe smoke hot?
I use Loctite 380 “Black Max”. It is a black “superglue” that is toughened, meaning it is not as brittle. After filing/sanding down and buffing/polishing, it blends in very well. Some others use a blend of charcoal powder and “superglue” or maybe epoxy, I am not sure. I think @KA9FFJ may use or has used the charcoal powder method?
I'm in the same corner with @RockyMountainBriar
Make sure you put a touch of vaseline on a pipe cleaner or coffee stirrer stick and insert and leave it to prevet any Loctite from seeping into the draw hole, then naturally remove it once the Loctite has set up...
The challenging part is making sure both surfaces are absolutely clean and vaseline free to insure maximum results...
I usually carve a small piece of balsa wood to keep the bit open, then just drill and file it out, it removes easily without maybe getting Vaseline where the Loctite needs to stick. I especially use it when I have to epoxy a missing chunk of bit in and cover it with the Loctite. I have a "funneling tool" from Vermont Freehand that works great to remove the balsa or open/form a bit airway. I think it is actually a clay carving/sculpting tool? It looks like a fine helical cut toothed file.
Considering a sanding to get the stummel a little lighter shade to help blend in the pit fills... I also have the inner bowl in pretty good shape now...
After light sanding...
First phase:
Alcohol wipe.
Sanding the pipe to remove some of the black.
Restained with a blend of yellow, ox blood and medium brown.
Another alcohol bath.
Then waxing, buffing and polishing.
The pit fills don't seem to be near as obvious now IMHO..Anyway, the stummel is complete. Now on to the stem...