After wet sanding to remove most of the black stain, I'm ready to call it a night. Not sure yet if I will add another color stain, or simply start waxing and buffing tomorrow...
@KA9FFJ that's some craftsmanship. Always love seeing your work. I do have one question, what is a good fiebings dye for a typical brown bowl? Or is it better just to wax after sanding?
@Zouave If all you do is LIGHTLY sand with say, 500 grit, then go to 800, I have found, generally speaking, that waxing and buffing will get you close to the original color. Medium brown will get you a darker shade of brown. Tan slighty lighter, and Buckskin is about as light of brown that still looks good on a pipe IMHO. To add a little something "special" to the look, I will add 1 drop of oxblood or red for every 15 to 20 drops of my color choice from time to time... If you ever decide to put yellow in the mix, it will take 10 to 12 drops for every 1 drop of your color choice. Less than that, you're wasting your time IMHO... Hope that helps...
Finished micro padding the stem. Then waxed and buffed the stummel. I'll be adding this one to my collection due to the stem/button repair. I refuse to sell a pipe that I've had to perform stem repairs since I'm not comfortable guaranteeing my work. Anyway, here's the final:
Kaywoodie estate find that needed a lot of attention. I'm not going to put you guys through another blow-by-blow description of some of the processes used. My apologies to those who thought my last pipe project was too lengthy and labored... Here's the before pics:
@KA9FFJ; I enjoy your blow by blow accounts and admire your finished work. If there or those who don't, they don't need to look at your process. Chances are they don't have any ability except to criticize. We don't need that in our brotherhood. Keep on keepin on Marine!
BTW @KA9FFJ Be careful of those wide paper Sutliff tins. Opened a 5+ year old tin and found the entire bottom of the tin rusted. Best to jar those up. Not all of them were like that but the fact it happened had me pop the rest of mine.
@AceFour I had several Sutliff tins that were rusted when I opened them straight off of the shelf. Sad to say, but Sutliff tobacco has never rated real high with me anyway. The mold that was in a few bad runs of C&D tobacco was worse though. I’m glad they seem to have got that figured out. They stood behind their products, with replacement/refunds though. I just jar nearly every tobacco I get. I have a handful of duplicate tins I have not popped. I am still on-the-fence on wether or not I am going to jar them. I have had some of the square/rectangular tins loose their seal. My Brown SG rope was tinder. I got it rehydrated with little trouble. I bought it from a local B&M, so who knows if someone popped the tin to “sample” the tin note or check the visual of a rope in the store at some point?
So I made 2 sanding tools to knock down the inside AND outside eges of the rim... Take 220 grit, cut slots to allow folding over a wooden knob. This allows uniform sanding for the inside edge...
Those 2 processes allowed me to eliminate all the chipped and scarring from countless beatings the poor pipe had to endure... I then finished with 500, then 800 grit, and used the 800 to take away most of the fine scratches and stain...
@KA9FFJ Another superb job! I like the rounding of the rim it fits the shape better than the original flat top. Speaking of old flat top, I was groovin' to the lyrics of Southern Cross!
@opipeman There actually are Doctors of pipes. I think it is bestowed upon people that have been standout contributors to pipe history, knowledge? I am not sure how one becomes a Dr. of pipes exactly, but I have heard about it.
@RockyMountainBriar; Now that you mention it, you are correct. Pipes & Tobacco Magazine, as motie2 posted, would run articles about the recipients. Seems like Chuck Stanion was awarded the honor, back when the Magazine was still in print. As a side note, I have every issue of that great publication.
Comments
Not sure yet if I will add another color stain, or simply start waxing and buffing tomorrow...
If all you do is LIGHTLY sand with say, 500 grit, then go to 800, I have found, generally speaking, that waxing and buffing will get you close to the original color.
Medium brown will get you a darker shade of brown. Tan slighty lighter, and Buckskin is about as light of brown that still looks good on a pipe IMHO.
To add a little something "special" to the look, I will add 1 drop of oxblood or red for every 15 to 20 drops of my color choice from time to time...
If you ever decide to put yellow in the mix, it will take 10 to 12 drops for every 1 drop of your color choice. Less than that, you're wasting your time IMHO...
Hope that helps...
Anyway, here's the final:
Beautiful process, brother!
Thank you sir...
I'm not going to put you guys through another blow-by-blow description of some of the processes used. My apologies to those who thought my last pipe project was too lengthy and labored...
Here's the before pics:
Another road apple turned into a gem. I enjoy your play by play commentary and will miss it! ☹
Much appreciated.
Might do some expanded accounts of my restorations from time to time...
I enjoy your blow by blow accounts and admire your finished work. If there or those who don't, they don't need to look at your process. Chances are they don't have any ability except to criticize. We don't need that in our brotherhood. Keep on keepin on Marine!
I had several Sutliff tins that were rusted when I opened them straight off of the shelf. Sad to say, but Sutliff tobacco has never rated real high with me anyway. The mold that was in a few bad runs of C&D tobacco was worse though. I’m glad they seem to have got that figured out. They stood behind their products, with replacement/refunds though. I just jar nearly every tobacco I get. I have a handful of duplicate tins I have not popped. I am still on-the-fence on wether or not I am going to jar them. I have had some of the square/rectangular tins loose their seal. My Brown SG rope was tinder. I got it rehydrated with little trouble. I bought it from a local B&M, so who knows if someone popped the tin to “sample” the tin note or check the visual of a rope in the store at some point?
Take 220 grit, cut slots to allow folding over a wooden knob. This allows uniform sanding for the inside edge...
Another superb job! I like the rounding of the rim it fits the shape better than the original flat top. Speaking of old flat top, I was groovin' to the lyrics of Southern Cross!
You should have a PHD in Pipe refurbishing. Dr. KA9FFJ has a nice ring to it.
There actually are Doctors of pipes. I think it is bestowed upon people that have been standout contributors to pipe history, knowledge? I am not sure how one becomes a Dr. of pipes exactly, but I have heard about it.
Now that you mention it, you are correct. Pipes & Tobacco Magazine, as motie2 posted, would run articles about the recipients. Seems like Chuck Stanion was awarded the honor, back when the Magazine was still in print. As a side note, I have every issue of that great publication.
Sadly, I entered the “game” too late. I only have, what I believe was, the final issue of that publication🙁