After a thorough drying, I used 600 grit to slowly remove most of the stain. Then I restained with tan, alcohol bath, wax, buff, polish and put a slight bend in the stem. Here's the final:
Have a Lord Davenport stummel. Decided to make it into a true nose warmer. Reason? 1. Never thought about making one until @RockyMountainBriar suggested it a while back. 2. This bowl has a slight outward cantor that, to me, is one of the better shapes for a nose warmer. Here's the stummel:
After staining, etc, here's the final. Note: I used just oxblood stain. I wanted to make it bright and cheery since it's the middle of winter and just for me...
Cut the tenon off the stem, drilled a seating hole then a slightly smaller deeper hole for the connector. I used a gel glue to secure it in the stem. The objective is to allow the glue to ALMOST dry, but to barely be pliable just enough give to allow you to adjust the stem turn to get you to 98% straight (underclocked, NOT overclocked). That way, after a day for the glue to totally set up, that very little bit of torque used to tighten the stem will result in an in-line stem. Mission accomplished:
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Then I restained with tan, alcohol bath, wax, buff, polish and put a slight bend in the stem.
Here's the final:
Really impressive transformation….
Behold: a born again E.A. Carey!
Reason?
1. Never thought about making one until @RockyMountainBriar suggested it a while back.
2. This bowl has a slight outward cantor that, to me, is one of the better shapes for a nose warmer.
Here's the stummel:
I used a gel glue to secure it in the stem. The objective is to allow the glue to ALMOST dry, but to barely be pliable just enough give to allow you to adjust the stem turn to get you to 98% straight (underclocked, NOT overclocked).
That way, after a day for the glue to totally set up, that very little bit of torque used to tighten the stem will result in an in-line stem.
Mission accomplished: