I have another pipe with no stem. This one is a panel that someone started to take the finish off, but gave up. The reason I know this is that there was some shellac located in areas that are generally hard to get to. Anyway, here it is:
I measured the ID and depth of the mortise. Then measured the ID of the stem, and drilled, cut and turned a delrin rod to create a new tenon for the stem:
Well, the stummel, grain-wise, was not much to look at. I decided if there was ANY hope to get a decent look, I would have to go dark, so I used a Medium Brown. The title of this dye is deceptive, at least to me. When I first used it years ago, I was expecting a shade somewhere between tan and dark brown... wrong... It was more dark than medium. Since then I have a technique that subdued it a little. 1. I don't preheat the stummel to open the grain pores. 2. As soon as the application has been completed, I immediately wipe it down with 70% alcohol and paper towels. It's still dark, but at least it allows some contrast to show instead of a more flat looking dark brown. Anyway, after initial sanding of the stem to better blend in with the shank, I decided to stain, wax and polish the stummel:
Oh, there was a place where the shank meets the bowl that didn't take stain very well. At first I thought it was a fill, but look at it very closely and tell me what you think...
@KA9FFJ Tough call on the spot on the transition, it could be leftover varnish, or it could just be a harder part of the grain. It doesn’t look like a fill to me?
Yeah, I think you guys are spot on. Especially when one zooms in on that spot. I'm also seeing grain running through that spot as well. Maybe caused by extra dense grain.?.? Therefore more resistant to the stain. Bottom line: I really don't know, but oh well, it is what it is... I DO know, all the varnish/shellac had been removed, so that reason has been eliminated...
@Montecristo I might try one or two of those stummels. The shank has not been mortered or drilled, and I can sure use the practice doing that. And for that price I can afford to give them a try... Tnx
Started working on a noname bulldog then I thought, maybe you guys would like to see it. The stem was not the original and was too big for the pipe. I had already started using 220 grit to get the stem and shank to match. A tricky thing to do when it's diamond shaped. Anyway, I just about had the stem matching when I decided to stop and take a few pics... Here it is, a pipe with issues:
Decided to reshape the rim area. This helped to blend in that front area where the rim edge had been mercilessly knocked and flattened. But as you can see, major issues are still present:
So what the heck, it's a noname pipe with a nonmatching stem, so I decided to have some fun with it. Depending on how you look at it, it almost looks like a bowl sitting in another bowl. At any rate, all the scars, dents and cracks no longer have to be seen...
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Old Dr. Grabows will never die, as long as craftsmen such as yourself are around.
I'll make this one short. Here's the "before" stummel:
Then found a stem I liked for it and turned it to fit the mortise with a good tight fit:
Here's the final:
At least I have a pipe that now can be used. I might keep this one.?.?🤔
The reason I know this is that there was some shellac located in areas that are generally hard to get to.
Anyway, here it is:
Looked around and found an old stem that, when I put the stummel against it, it was a very close match:
The title of this dye is deceptive, at least to me. When I first used it years ago, I was expecting a shade somewhere between tan and dark brown... wrong...
It was more dark than medium.
Since then I have a technique that subdued it a little.
1. I don't preheat the stummel to open the grain pores.
2. As soon as the application has been completed, I immediately wipe it down with 70% alcohol and paper towels.
It's still dark, but at least it allows some contrast to show instead of a more flat looking dark brown.
Anyway, after initial sanding of the stem to better blend in with the shank, I decided to stain, wax and polish the stummel:
Tough call on the spot on the transition, it could be leftover varnish, or it could just be a harder part of the grain. It doesn’t look like a fill to me?
I concur.
Maybe caused by extra dense grain.?.? Therefore more resistant to the stain.
Bottom line: I really don't know, but oh well, it is what it is...
I DO know, all the varnish/shellac had been removed, so that reason has been eliminated...
I might try one or two of those stummels.
The shank has not been mortered or drilled, and I can sure use the practice doing that. And for that price I can afford to give them a try...
Tnx
You might want to take a look attheir stems.
https://rnatreasures.com/collections/pipe-stems
They have some aged Algerian briar stummels with draft hole drilled at a good price. Who knows...🤔
The stem was not the original and was too big for the pipe. I had already started using 220 grit to get the stem and shank to match. A tricky thing to do when it's diamond shaped.
Anyway, I just about had the stem matching when I decided to stop and take a few pics...
Here it is, a pipe with issues:
Depending on how you look at it, it almost looks like a bowl sitting in another bowl.
At any rate, all the scars, dents and cracks no longer have to be seen...
I know it's ugly, but still, there's just something about it that keeps my eye drawn to it... 🤔
What, do you do this all night long? That post was at nearly 1 am! LOL
Very nice bulldog by the way!