I'll be looking and thinking about this one for a little while. It's a Signature pipe with Johnnie on the stem. The stem stamp is very shallow, so we'll see if it will hold. If it does, I need to find a guy named "John" that might be interested in a pipe.. 😏
@vtgrad2003 It depends on the affect your looking for, but basically I use a dremel and one of these 3 tools. Sometimes I combine 2 or more to achieve a different result... I set my dremel to 7 or 8. Very low. I found it helps the controlling issue that can arise if you lose concentration...
Ok. Well I don't have to worry about "Johnnie" anymore. The oxidation was bad enough and the stamping was so shallow, that about 5 or 6 swipes with 500 grit took care of him/her/it.?.? Anyway, I no longer have to try and find a person whose name corresponds to the pipe...😉 So all internal cleaning was completed, the stinger was made "new" again along with the stem itself. So that part is finished... Now to the stummel. Notice the deep beveled rim?
Here's a trick I learned from Bare Pipe on YouTube. Went to the hobby store and bought a pack of various sized wooden balls. You then match the bevel with one of the balls. Next you'll need 220 grit...
Here's where I go my own direction. Bare Pipe takes the time to custom fit his wraps around the ball and glue them to the ball. I'm too impatient for that, so I start by increasing the initial diameter by about a 1/8" and freehand a new diameter accordingly...
I then cut N,S,E,W, etc., from the outside to the new diameter... I then tear every other section from the sandpaper. If you don't do that, it will be too thick and you will never get it to wrap around the ball..
I then soak the sandpaper to make it more pliable, and start overlapping until the entire ball and sandpaper is being held with all your fingers of one hand. This may take a little time to master, but it can be done. Then it's just a matter of rotating the ball tightly on the rim, while changing/rotating the bowl so the sandpaper is covering the entire rim, and this is what you get...
@RockyMountainBriar Bevelling a rim also comes in handy when you have the inside portion of the rim charred so badly that it becomes the only technique that works to get it off. Of course if your a purist, (nothing wrong with that) it will obviously deform the original shape of the bowl. If I have to do that, which is rare, I will always disclose it to the potential buyer so they are not deceived into thinking it's a factory design...
I usually just chuck up a 1 1/2 wood speed bit that I have modified to cut a bevel in the drill press…now the mill and finish with a light hand sanding. The round ball sounds good for “trimming”, I may make a wooden cone on my lathe to match my beveled bit. Thanks for the idea👍🏻
I was gifted all of these miscellaneous parts by friends of mine from the St Louis pipe show. It is a collection of damaged, miscellaneous, and non fitting parts that I will be dealing with. The stummels that have stems are the result of me finding individual stems in the box that almost work. Some form of adjustments will be needed in relationship to the tenon and the mortis and/or the shank and stem. We'll see what happens, and I will be updating you on each individual pipe in the near future... 🤞🏻
Going to try and keep these short and sweet as I post them. Decided to take all the stems that almost fit and turn or sand the tenon until I had a good tight fit. I figured there was no reason to work on any pipe unless I had a good fitting stem. So I took 8 pipe stems, did some work, and now have good, snug-fitting stems. A few of them still need to match up better with the shanks, but I can do that later while doing stummel work. This pipe had a gouge issue and so I decided to make a 220 grit cone-shaped sanding tool to uniformly trim down the edge of the outside rim... Here's the before pic:
I then did a very light rustication on the rim to help keep the theme of the pipe in tact, and then restained it... I then took 1000 grit and gently went over the entire bowl for subtle highlights. I'll wax, buff and polish later and show you the final...
Did an experiment. Mixed matte acrylic paint with Fiebing's Buckskin to try and match the base color of the pipe. It took a few times, but eventually found a ratio that worked...
Comments
Everyday you amaze me. I wish I had your ability or talent or skill or gift or whatever it is! I have two of your reverbs and I love them!
If it does, I need to find a guy named "John" that might be interested in a pipe.. 😏
What tool do you use to do that? I’ve seen videos of it but the tools seem to vary
@KA9FFJ does some great rustification.
@KA9FFJ
Johnnie spelled with “ie” is either a girl or….well, probably a girl.
It depends on the affect your looking for, but basically I use a dremel and one of these 3 tools. Sometimes I combine 2 or more to achieve a different result...
I set my dremel to 7 or 8. Very low. I found it helps the controlling issue that can arise if you lose concentration...
Anyway, I no longer have to try and find a person whose name corresponds to the pipe...😉
So all internal cleaning was completed, the stinger was made "new" again along with the stem itself. So that part is finished...
Now to the stummel. Notice the deep beveled rim?
Went to the hobby store and bought a pack of various sized wooden balls.
You then match the bevel with one of the balls.
Next you'll need 220 grit...
I then tear every other section from the sandpaper. If you don't do that, it will be too thick and you will never get it to wrap around the ball..
Then it's just a matter of rotating the ball tightly on the rim, while changing/rotating the bowl so the sandpaper is covering the entire rim, and this is what you get...
Wow! That looks fantastic from what it was before! Nice job!
Appreciate it...
Bevelling a rim also comes in handy when you have the inside portion of the rim charred so badly that it becomes the only technique that works to get it off.
Of course if your a purist, (nothing wrong with that) it will obviously deform the original shape of the bowl.
If I have to do that, which is rare, I will always disclose it to the potential buyer so they are not deceived into thinking it's a factory design...
It is a collection of damaged, miscellaneous, and non fitting parts that I will be dealing with.
The stummels that have stems are the result of me finding individual stems in the box that almost work.
Some form of adjustments will be needed in relationship to the tenon and the mortis and/or the shank and stem.
We'll see what happens, and I will be updating you on each individual pipe in the near future... 🤞🏻
Decided to take all the stems that almost fit and turn or sand the tenon until I had a good tight fit. I figured there was no reason to work on any pipe unless I had a good fitting stem. So I took 8 pipe stems, did some work, and now have good, snug-fitting stems. A few of them still need to match up better with the shanks, but I can do that later while doing stummel work.
This pipe had a gouge issue and so I decided to make a 220 grit cone-shaped sanding tool to uniformly trim down the edge of the outside rim...
Here's the before pic:
I'll wax, buff and polish later and show you the final...