Fixing a loose stem - suggestions?

mfresa

OK I admit to the cardinal sin of removing the stem from a pipe while it is warm/hot.  In fact, I have done this many times during a smoke to blow water out of the stem and clear it for a "drier" smoke.
As would be predicted, the stem has now become loose in the pipe, and I would like to remedy this situation.  Has anyone done this successfully without damaging the pipe?  I have heard of two methods:
a) head the stem and force the material to be a little larger in circumference;
b) put water in the shaft of the pipe and allow the wood to "swell".

Which one would be the best?  Or are there other ways that are better?
Thanks in advance.

mfresa

that should read "a) heat the stem..." above.

pipeman83

@mfresa, Beeswax, get a cake of beeswax and apply it to the tenon, just turn the tenon directly on the beeswax cake and then put back on the pipe, you will notice the difference in tightness,after a couple of smokes the heat will expand the beeswax and you'll get a nice fit, I've done that and never had to do it again after, give it a try, let me know if it works for you.

ghostsofpompeii

I've tried both heating it and the beeswax method and think the beeswax is the best way to go. Less chance of permanently messing up your pipe.

Philip

Sir, 

Beeswax is the best first step. 

Keeping a pipe cleaner handy to remove moisture while mid-smoke may solve the root cause.

mfresa

@Philip, @ghostsofpompeii, @pipeman83, beeswax it is, I'll get some today.  Thanks!!

Watchmaker61

Beeswax is gtreat is it's just a little loose. I have a few estate pipes which are a lot loose, and I have used plumbers teflon tape one single wrap around makes them fit perfectly.

Bonanzadriver

First let's address what caused this...  :P

Next time your pipe's a gurglin, try running a pipe cleaner down the stem, I read about this on another forum several months back and it works on all but one or two of my smokers, simply because the bend is too extreme or the draught hole is too tight.

I've found the bees wax to offer temporary relief for loose tenons.

Again, from other forums, I've read about and used...

1.  Apply a thin coat of fingernail polish.  It increases the overall thickness (outer diameter) of the tenon and will shore things up.  If you happen to put too much on, Do Not force it.  Simply sand some of it off.  Don't want to crack your shank.

2.  Heat up the tenon with a lighter and then press the tip, perpendicular to a flat surface, this will cause the tenon to shorten a bit, but in the process it pushes the walls out.  Again, be patient and easy with this.  Don't want to destroy the tenon or crack the shank.


Good luck

motie2

Back in the day, before I went almost totally Carey, I used the heat and press method and the beeswax method. Both work' but the beeswax version is less likely to screw-up the tenon. Try beeswax first and only if it fails, use the heat and press method

mfresa

@Watchmaker61, @motie2 and @Bonanzadriver, those are excellent ideas.  Thanks so much.  I will try the least invasive methods first.

Bonanzadriver

@mfresa,

which ever method you use just make sure to not force the stem's tenon into the shank.  Doing so could crack your beautiful briar.

If it's too tight, sand it down a tad, of if it was the beeswax, wipe some off.

Woodsman

I've used super glue after cleaning with alcohol, a very thin layer, gently sand down uneven points. Make sure the glue is completely dry. Test fit slowly and sand down lightly with fine sandpaper. I've only done this once.

drac2485

I've never been brave enough to do anything permanent to a pipe, unless it's a cob. Beeswax has worked great for me though. I did find that my pipes have looser tenons when it's cooler out, like putting a pipe in the freezer to get out a stuck stem, so I like the fact that beeswax isn't permanent. Also the beeswax is suppose to help lube the tenon a bit to make it easier to remove/replace the stem.

mfresa

Great suggestions, all.  Currently am using the plumber's tape method, as it does not alter the stem.  Will try the others when I get fed up looking for the tape (the garage is a mess).
Thanks!!

PhilosoPiper

I know I am late to the game but  there are a couple of methods that have been mentioned that have successfully worked for me.

1.) On my Savinelli Nonpareil I used beeswax, this worked perfectly and still works great.

2.) On a pipe which I bought and gifted to a friend after I restored it (the exact branding eludes me), I warmed up the stem in hot water on the stove, inserted a metal chopstick into the stem (as it had a gradual taper) and caused the end to expand enough to fit snugly into the pipe.

motie2

Someone may have mentioned this, but plumber's teflon tape works swell for a loose tenon.

dbh1950

Agree with Bonanzadriver and his #2 suggestion, heat the tenon slightly, once heated, push the end against a flat surface lightly just enough to deform the walls of the tenon. Let it cool, give it a try fit, repeat the process if necessay. 

As to bees wax, I generally use it as a screw lube, never attempted to use it as a material to tighten a pipe mortise and tenon joint. If it works, go with it. 

motie2

Someone may have mentioned this, but plumber's teflon tape works swell for a loose tenon.

Wolf41035

I have Honey Bees so plenty of Bee's wax just let me know if you need some.

Hitz53

Go to a "cigarette store" and buy a pack of Zig-Zag rolling  (or Wheatstraw or Naked or whatever) papers. They are about .001 in thickness.  Cut a paper to about the length of the length of the stem that goes into the pipe then cut that piece to about 1/2 the diameter of the piece that goes into the pipe. Wrap is around the piece and shove it into the shank. It should make a good tight fit. If too tight then use cellophane (about .0005) and if too loose wrap the paper completely around the part. If you don't mind looking silly buy a hose clamp close to the diameter of the shank. Put the clamp on the shank with the stem in the shank. Tighten the clamp until there is a good pull on the shank. Then Bob's you uncle. The question is do you want to smoke or look like the young Hugh Hefner?

RockyMountainBriar

I have refurbed a bunch of pipes (300-400). Even a very tight tenon/shank union in most briar pipes seem to get loose when I use the retort cleaning/sterilizing method.
I use the heat and push method on vulcanite tenons. Be very careful when fitting, it is easier than you might think to crack a shank. If it is too tight at first, just gently heat the tenon again and refit. I use a hot air pencil for surface mount electronics, it has a small 1/8" or so airway. It directs the heat to a very small portion of the tenon. When pushing the stem/tenon on a flat surface one must be very careful to keep the tenon perpendicular, otherwise the shank/stem fit will cant. Of course you can fix this by reheating and straightening the tenon again. If the vulcanite is not overheated, it will return close to its' original position from its' "memory".
I use the same method for acrylic tenons, but they are much more difficult to work. They are very hard to heat "just right" without burning/melting them, and they do not have the "memory" of vulcanite.
If the pipe has an aluminum press fit tenon, first make sure the aluminum tenon is smooth and use some dry graphite on the tenon. Then put a very thin layer of Cyanoacrylic Adhesive "Super Glue" in the shank as evenly as possible and let it dry. Once dry, carefully and slowly drill the shank (twist drill bit in hand only) slightly undersized just to round out/smooth out the shank internal. If the bit grabs too much, you can turn the but counterclockwise, this will still even out the adhesive and reduce the chance of cracking the shank or cutting too deep past the tenon seat. If needed I carefully carve/sand the shank internal for fit.
"Over Timing" on aluminum and bone screw tenons can be "Timed" with thin coats of Cyanoacrylic in the shank as well. Be very careful as to not glue the threads too much. I have yet to find a tap to chase the threads in these types of wide, coarse pitched threads if the threads get filled.

motie2

Use due caution when using alpha-cyanoacrylate ("Super glue" or "Crazy glue")

One does not trifle with H=Cfil-O R ON 0 wherein R is an alkyl group of 1-10 carbon atoms and expect to come out unscathed.

motie2

And if you put it on the tenon or in the stummel, make damn sure it's dry before putting the two parts together.

I've made that mistake. [Epic Fail]

Woodsman

You're not alone.

motie2

And again, plumbers teflon tape. It doesn't stick to anything yet makes a tight seal, doesn't degrade, isn't absorbent, trims easily, is thinner than floss...... and it works. 

Now, when a device (let's say for the sake of example, a Carey Magic inch) comes loose from the stummel, then a drop of epoxy is called for. (I even contacted Carey's repair Dept. people, who informed me that Carey could charge me to repair the pipe, or I could do it myself with a drop of epoxy. Honest folks.)   The teflon tape is only for loose tenon/stummel connections.

Rusty69

I've had some cases where the fit was too loose for the beeswax method, and found that clear fingernail polish worked very well - just make sure to let it dry thoroughly and sand it down if the fit is too tight.

mfresa

@Rusty69, great idea.  More permanent than the plumber's tape, but takes longer to implement.

motie2

Beware the esters that come off cheap fingernail polish.... ick.

mfresa

I hear ya.  Heat makes things change chemically.

RockyMountainBriar

oops, double post, sorry