Soaking Pipe Stems in Oxyclean

PappyJoe

One of the things I do when cleaning pipes and removing oxidation from the stems is to do a soak in an Oxyclean solution.
Without the pipe stems in the jar, the solution just sits there. With the stems in the jar, you can see the solution at work.

https://youtu.be/VCmutHEhxgE

Bloodhound61

Excellent tip, @PappyJoe

rumrum4me

I've been doing the same for a few years Pappy. Some think it's worthless, but I feel it makes it easier to remove the oxidation. I usually use some XXXX steel wool on the stem while it's still wet with the solution. Rinse in water, dry it off and run a pipe cleaner through it and let it set for a little bit before starting with the sandpaper or micromesh pads.

PappyJoe

@rumrum4me

I use the micromesh pads starting with a 3200 and working my way up to 12000. The 3200 pad I use wet. After the stem dries, I apply a coat of the Brebbia Pipe Polish and let it dry before polishing it off with the 3600, 6000, 8000 and 12000 pads. I've been told I could skip a pad or two but I like to be thorough. 

After rinsing in water, I like to apply some toothpaste to about a 1/3rd of a wet pipe cleaner and run it back and forth through the stem several times. I use a bristle pipe cleaner most of the time for this and follow it up with just a wet soft pipe cleaner and then another rinse.

After all that, I take the stem to my buffer and polish it more with green buffing compound I bought from Mark Tinsky followed by a light application of carnauba wax. 

My final step is to apply a coat of Obsidian oil, let it dry and buff it with a soft cloth.

Some of this may be overkill, but I like to be sure.

Jayhawk422

I wish I had someone explain it that well when I first started restoring pipes. I may have to adapt a few of your methods @PappyJoe

PappyJoe

@Jayhawk422 - I forgot to mention. I use about 1 tablespoon of Oxyclean to a pint jar of warm water. Set the jar on a towel and then drop the pipe stem or stems in to the jar.

One other thing. You may want to dab a little Vaseline or other petroleum jelly on the logo if you want to protect it. The A logo on the Ascorti I just restored lost what little white paint was in the logo. It was an easy fix to rub a little what paint over the logo and then wipe it off with a soft cloth before buffing, but it may not be as easy on other logos.

Jayhawk422

I have made that mistake before on an old kaywoodie.

jim102864

Hmm.  Seems like a pretty straight forward method.  I'm going to have to try this.  My regular rotation pipes are due for a deep cleaning anyway.

qmechanics

Any thoughts/links for an inexpensive variable (low enough rpm range) or proper low speed bench buffer?

PappyJoe

I bought a 6-inch buffer at Harbor Freight for around $45. It has one set rpm of 3450. I am thinking about getting or building a rheostat box to plug it into so I can adjust the speed and have more control.

What I have learned using mine is that it will do the work I want done but the key is not pushing the bowl or stem too hard into the wheel. It will rip it out of your hand and send it flying. With practice, I've learned to just barely touch the pipe to the wheel. 

AnantaAndroscoggin

@PappyJoe Harbor Freight also has what they're calling a router speed control (around $20.), which I got to ALSO use with my one-speed Craftsman scroll saw. Hmmmmmmmm . . . maybe it'll also work on the buffer ? ? ?

PappyJoe

@AnantaAndroscoggin
Thanks. I'll have to go look for it.

PappyJoe

@AnantaAndroscoggin - Went and bought one this morning. I couldn't get it to work correctly at first but then read one of the reviews on how to adjust the pot on the board inside of the control. Works pretty good but if you put too much pressure on the wheel it will stop it at the lower speeds.

AnantaAndroscoggin

That's the problem with electric motors, isn't it . . .

Jayhawk422

I was able to find a variable bench grinder that has worked well. At first it was still too much speed, but I did get a vareanct which did the trick to slow it down tobthe points where I needed them.

Bonanzadriver

Picked up one of these about 1 1/2 years ago....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-Speed-Bench-Lathe-Polishing-Buffing-Motor-Machine-Jewery-Polisher/173285521660?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=52475&meid=215e0f95687a415e92a123f309c54737&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=151836797858&itm=173285521660&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851


Works great.  Really like that it's variable speed.

PappyJoe

@Bonanzadriver
How does it hold the buffing wheels on?

Bonanzadriver

The tips, on each side of the unit, are tapered and threaded.  The buffing wheels are threaded onto the tips...

https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/5-quot-2pcs-lot-white-grinding-buffing-wheel/410660374.html

thebadgerpiper

So, I thought this would be the best thread to ask this. What are some recommended resources for a novice such as myself to restore estate briars? I have two briars that recently came into my possession, and they need a lot more TLC that I've dealt with in the past. The stems need some heavy cleaning, but using stuff like Oxiclean and/or bleach is a bit intimidating. I also don't have a buffing wheel, buffing wax, or micro mesh pads. I do have a drill though, so I don't know if there are buffing tools that I can use with the drill? Also, what would be good to use on the briar itself to get it looking brand new again?

Does anyone have some suggested articles or videos for reference? I'd rather not ruin any of the briars.

PappyJoe

@thebadgerpiper
Where do you live? 
Check out rebornpipes.com he has a restoration and repair shop in British Columbia and his blog has a lot of helpful articles on cleaning and restoring pipes. I have learned a lot from him.

I asked where you live because if you have something like a Hobby Lobby or Michaels close by, you can buy the micro-mesh pads and pure beeswax there. A decent variable speed buffer is not something easily found. I bought a buffer that uses 6 inch wheels at Harbor Freight and a speed control from there as well. It doesn't work as well as an actual variable speed buffer but it's what I could afford at the time. You will also want to find the polishing compound most shops use - red diamond and white diamond - on line.

Using a drill as a buffer is theoretically possible but you will have to find some way to securely mount the drill in a position you can use it and figure out how to control the speed. You need to hold the pipe in both hands when you are cleaning and polishing.

PappyJoe

@thebadgerpiper - Forgot to mention. You really only need the oxyclean for heavily oxidized stems and it shouldn't be that intimidating. I use a pint jar, add about 2 tablespoons of oxyclean and then fill it with hot water. Just drop the stem in and let it soak for an hour.  I know some people use bleach but I just haven't tried it. Rebornpipes has a very good article about cleaning and polishing stems.

mapletop

I would like to offer an alternative method for removing oxidation and polishing pipe stems,

Turtle Wax Has two products that work extremely well at removing oxidation and polishing the stem by hand.

The first is the Rubbing compound https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-rubbing-compound

I removes heavy oxidation relatively quickly  and the stem is left with a dull shine.

You follow that up with Turtle Wax Polishing compound https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-polishing-compound

It really only takes a few minutes to do this process by hand and your stem looks brand new.

I know this will sound a bit crazy but after messing with carnauba wax and finding it did not hold up all that well for preserving my stems I started experimenting

and found that  a particular car polish works extremity well and is quite durable and that is http://www.nufinish.com/products/car-polish

I have been using the above method for a number of years on estate pipes I pick up hear and there and some of my older pipes that have been neglected and the results have been phenomenal.

Good luck to us all, cheers.

jfreedy

I use Oxyclean on most of my estate’s stems... even if they aren’t that bad. I just feel like it gets them REALLY clean in case the previous owner had some kind of contagious leprous lip fungus or something. I’m sure soap & water and an everclear pipe cleaner would also be sufficient. 

I’ve heard from several folks to never use bleach as it can pit the vulcanite. 

I typically do the following...

1. Oxyclean stems for 12-24 hours
2. MagicErasure until all brown/yellow comes off
3. Bristle pipe cleaner with everclear for stem & shank
4. MicroMesh 2400, 3200, 6000, 8000 then 12000 pads (similar to what PappyJoe does)
5. Virgin Olive Oil stem for 1-2 min. then wipe off
6. Buff with soft cotton cloth (old t-shirt)

@thebadgerpiper —  I don’t have a buffing wheel either, and I’ve been happy with my results. Plus, you can get just about everything from Amazon if you don’t have the local shops. 

Oxcyclean
MicroMesh pads (I’ll get these next time)
MagicEraser
Hard bristled pipe cleaners

PappyJoe

@mapletop - Do you sterilize the stems after using turtle wax? I don't know if I would want to put something used for autos in my mouth.

mapletop

PappyJoe
I use a rag with some  90 % alcohol to clean the bit area and then rub  the bit with a small piece of flannel that's been impregnated with beeswax.
I figure if I'm going to eat wax it might as well be food grade which most beeswax is.

thebadgerpiper

@PappyJoe @mapletop @jfreedy

Thank you for taking the time to explain how you each restore your pipes. Seeing how each of you take care of your stems gives me a good idea on how I should approach it. I was worried about needing a buffing wheel, but it looks like I don't need to buy one to restore the pipes I have.

I'll pick up some oxiclean, beeswax, and micromesh pads this weekend. Reborn Pipes mentioned something called Restoration Balm, which should work perfectly for polishing the briars.

After I clean up my two estates, I'll go back and restore a few briars I've had since picking up a pipe. They were passable, but definitely could use a good polishing.

PappyJoe

@mapletop - I'm going to try your method with the rubbing compounds and the Nu-Finish. My only concern is the disclaimer on the Nu-Finish which says do not use on rubber. I'll let you know how it goes but I may wait until I get a heavily oxidized stem to clean.

mapletop

I would like to offer an alternative method for removing oxidation and polishing pipe stems,

Turtle Wax Has two products that work extremely well at removing oxidation and polishing the stem by hand.

The first is the Rubbing compound https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-rubbing-compound

I removes heavy oxidation relatively quickly  and the stem is left with a dull shine.

You follow that up with Turtle Wax Polishing compound https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-polishing-compound

It really only takes a few minutes to do this process by hand and your stem looks brand new.

I know this will sound a bit crazy but after messing with carnauba wax and finding it did not hold up all that well for preserving my stems I started experimenting

and found that  a particular car polish works extremity well and is quite durable and that is http://www.nufinish.com/products/car-polish

I have been using the above method for a number of years on estate pipes I pick up hear and there and some of my older pipes that have been neglected and the results have been phenomenal.

Good luck to us all, cheers.

mapletop

I would like to offer an alternative method for removing oxidation and polishing pipe stems,

Turtle Wax Has two products that work extremely well at removing oxidation and polishing the stem by hand.

The first is the Rubbing compound https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-rubbing-compound

I removes heavy oxidation relatively quickly  and the stem is left with a dull shine.

You follow that up with Turtle Wax Polishing compound https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-polishing-compound

It really only takes a few minutes to do this process by hand and your stem looks brand new.

I know this will sound a bit crazy but after messing with carnauba wax and finding it did not hold up all that well for preserving my stems I started experimenting

and found that  a particular car polish works extremity well and is quite durable and that is http://www.nufinish.com/products/car-polish

I have been using the above method for a number of years on estate pipes I pick up hear and there and some of my older pipes that have been neglected and the results have been phenomenal.

Good luck to us all, cheers.

KenofAhwlby

Seems I’m not the only one that somehow gets posted more than once...????

thebadgerpiper

So after taking everyone's suggestions (and some reading on the Reborn Pipes blog), I was able to restore two estates I recently added to my collection: a Savinelli Lovat and a Kaywoodie Billiard. This was what I did.

1. Gave the pipe bowls a salt treatment.

2. Soaked the stems in Oxiclean for an hour.

3. Deep cleaned the pipe shank with everclear and pipe cleaners.

4. Removed as much rim char as I could with everclear, and later lemon juice.

5. Used Restoration Balm to polish the briar.

6. Removed the stems from the oxiclean bath and scrubbed them with a Mr. Clean magic eraser.

7. Sanded the stems with micro mesh pads.

8. Polished the stems with White Diamond polish and an old rag.

9. Left a coat of olive oil on the stems for ten minutes and rubbed the oil in with the rag.

The crud and staining on the stems came off, and the pipes look much better than they did before. I still have to realign the stem positioning on the Kaywoodie (the stem was overtightened), but I've researched what to do, and should be able to fix that tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!