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What is it and how do I clean it?

My dad and I got these new Ewa pipes and I have never seen this before. All my other stems are hollow all the way through.

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  • KmhartleKmhartle Master
    edited February 2018
    It's a "stinger" or condenser filter. I've never found much use for them myself. I prefer to remove them.  It's supposed to give a cooler, dryer smoke. Here's a little more info....

    https://rebornpipes.com/2013/05/17/behold-the-lowly-stinger/
  • Agreed. Lose the stinger. You won't find them in "better" pipes. It's a gimmick and a stupid one, too. Causes build-up of yuck where none should be.
  • @Kmhartle appreciate the article. I popped that sucker out. I was hoping it’d be that easy to take care of. :)
  • @ocpunk714. Good call on removing the stinger. I think you'll have a much more enjoyable smoke without it. 
  • https://www.reddit.com/r/PipeTobacco/wiki/index (by Russ Oullette)

    Stinger: or sometimes called a condenser. hardest part of basic pipe design is drilling a air channel with no variances in size or direction. The failure to do this causes either the smoke to be able to expand, which by Boyle's law will yield a drop in temperature, which leads to condensation from the gas, and turbulence can do can do much the same. If you want to make an effective pipe and not spend the money to drill like the carriage trade makers do, then you have to do something about the condensation. One way is the porous material, often called a "filter" (not technically true unless the gas passes through the material), which catches the moisture Paper, charcoal, balsa wood, rock maple wood, meerschaum, clay pellets have all been used for this purpose. The stinger/condenser uses a metal piece to trap it before it enters the stem. Stingers may be immovable, they may push in/pull out, or they may be screw in. The permanent ones are a pain to clean, they generally will not pass a pipe cleaner. The other two are easier to clean. if you take them out or in some cases cut the head off of the permanent ones, beware failure to keep your pipe clean and it is likely to remind you in most distasteful ways.




  • @ocpunk714 -- Anything the hinders a pipe cleaner from easily passing through must go! Well done on removing the stinger. If you ever get a Kaywoodie pipe you cannot remove the stinger. However, you can cut it off with a hacksaw just below the air hole and still maintain the threads that keep it attached to the bowl. Old Kaywoodies actually smoke really well. It was the preferred brand of President Gerald Ford.


  • I have a couple of old Kaywoodies with the stinger still in them and refuse to alter the stingers from an aesthetic point. I rescued the pipes and restored them to smoke like they are original. I have several other rescued pipes with stingers including a Lineman (the predecessor to Dr. Grabow) that someone mutilated the stinger on it. 
  • They made it that way for a reason.
  • I agree with PappyJoe, that the stinger should remain with the pipe, and if it has to be cut off, it should probably be left alone for collectability sake.

    It never made sense to me, for a company to engineer a pipe in such a way that it gurgles, and needs a stinger to compensate for it. Wouldn't it make much more sense to put the time and effort into engineering the pipe properly, so that it doesn't gurgle to begin with?

    I suppose pipe engineering means different things to different people.


  • @xDutchx - I don't think the old pipes like Kaywoodies and Dr. Grabows were made with a stinger to compensate for gurgle. If I remember something I read correctly, the stingers were engineered to actually cool the smoke and prevent tongue burn. I don't remember any of my pipes with stingers actually gurgling.

    In my experience, the smokers who remove the stingers or cut them, do so because they want to increase the draw and to be able to pass the pipe cleaner. Stingers do restrict the draw because the airway going through the stinger is a smaller diameter. 

    I have maybe 5 or six old pipes with stingers. I generally will not buy a pipe if the stinger has been cut off or removed because, for me personally, that lessens the value of the pipe.
  • motie2motie2 Master
    edited February 2018
    Russ Oulette on moisture and gurgling

    <<Moisture- This is another major bugaboo among pipe smokers. No one likes a gurgling pipe, and there are a number of potential solutions. Of course, the simplest answer is not to clench, which causes less saliva to run back down the stem, but what we want here are pipe-centric solutions, so let’s start with the most obvious- filters.

    Filters will almost certainly reduce or eliminate gurgling, but many people are put off by the amount of flavor they remove from the smoke. While that’s undoubtedly true with the paper or charcoal filter types, there are others that don’t have that issue. The balsa filters used by Savinelli won’t decrease the taste of the smoke because the stream never passes through the filter, but around it. The only thing that the filter affects is the moisture, leaving drier smoke. In a similar vein, the Brigham filter is an open tube of rock maple that wicks away some of the vapor from the smoke, allowing it to pass cleanly through.

    The Peterson System pipes use a different approach to moisture removal. The reservoir in the shank creates turbulence in the airflow. As the smoke swirls, the droplets condense and run down into the reservoir, efficiently trapping the fluid. After finishing, the moisture can be poured out, and with a swipe from a bent pipe cleaner, the pipe is fairly dry.

    The Calabash works on a similar principle because of the large cavity in the gourd just below the meerschaum insert/bowl, but in this case, the gourd just absorbs the moisture, so the maintenance is a little lower.

    The stem insert referred to as a “stinger” also works by interrupting the airflow, but the moisture remains in the pipe, so the gurgling may or may not stop.

    But the principle of turbulence can work against a pipe. If the stem doesn’t bottom out in the shank, that little gap between the end of the tenon and the far end of the mortise can cause moisture to be deposited in that area, and it will, most likely, find its way up the stem. So, my best suggestion is to spend a bit more and buy a pipe from a name you’re comfortable with so the likelihood of a bad fit is decreased.>>


  • I have a couple of vintage Kaywoodies with stingers, and they don't perturb me that much. I've found that "gurgling," for me at least, has to do with how wet the tobacco is and how I pack it (usually not particularly well). The stingers strike me as an effect of that time in the 50s and early 60s when we felt that technology could solve all our problems. Better living through chemistry and such. They're made of that cool new metal aluminum, they look space-age, and they seem scientific. A recipe for popularity in those times. (Granted, I wasn't alive then, but I've studied that period in depth in a vain attempt to understand my parents).
  • To sting, or not to sting... That is the question... :)

  • @PappyJoe, my first experience with a stinger pipe was a Kaywoodie bulldog. I wanted to like the pipe, but it gurgled when I smoked it. Since the stinger couldn't be removed easily, I tried cutting off the end with a dremel tool. At that point, I was able to run a pipe cleaner through, but it still gurgled. I took a set of small files, and tried working the edges, to see if I could minimize the gurgle, but I never was successful.

    Most of my pipes that came with a stinger, such as the leather clads, had easy to remove stingers, so the smoking characteristics are much better than that original Kaywoodie.

    I think it was 5 or 6 years ago, that Kaywoodie stopped making pipes with stingers all together.

  • I think they dropped the stinger for two reasons, one was the stinger itself the other was the threaded connection, they would wear slightly and would misalign the stem. you can rotate a round stem pipe to compensate but you can't compensate a saddle bit. I've had to thicken the thread with teflon tape or use a thin shim for that.
  • I am actually a fan of the sintgers in my kaywoodys. They seem to help me smoke aromatics the best. But, that’s is just my opinion.
  • @Woodsman - A trick I was taught to solve that problem. Unscrew the stem and warm the metal stinger for 10 seconds or so, screw the stem back in and tighten it. Keep turning the stem and if the glue hold the metal stinger in place got hot enough it will allow you to re-align the stem. Let it cool for a couple of hours and it should be good. I've don't remember where I learned that, but I've used it several times on rescued pipes and it works.
  • @PappyJoe I've used the method on round stems, the Stinger rotates with the round spacer(?) at the same time. The square plate of the Saddle Bit also rotates therefore it doesn't line up with the stem thus the method I use is different using a thin shim or adjusting the thread thickness.
  • @Woodsman - Interesting. It has worked on the four or five pipes I've used it on. 
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