Cellar Containers
JLehman5290
Professor
in Tobacco Talk
I don't have a huge cellar yet. Just stocking up on some Frog Morton tins and bulk buys from my local tobacconist. I have been using regular mason jars and am wondering if anyone uses the jars with the larger rubber seal, like you would see blended tobacco in your local shop? I've also been storing my bulk buys into smaller jars, so that once a jar is opened I'm not drying out larger amounts.
Comments
Wow, you guys must be independently wealthy using those bail mason jars. I did the math on using the bail mason jars, in place of the large standard quart jars, and here's what I came up with.
The largest bail mason jar I could find at my local Walmart, were 1 pint and there are 2 pints in the large quart jars I normally use for bulk blends. Since it takes twice as many bail mason jars in the pint size, to equal the storage volume in a case of standard quart jars, here are the figures I came up with when I did the math.
I can get a case of 12 standard quart mason jars for around $11.00 including tax. The bail mason jars cost around $7.00 each including tax, and I need twice as many of them, in order to equal the storage volume of a case of standard quart jars. $7.00 x 24 equals $168.00.
I can purchase a 1 lb bag of wine bottle sealing wax beads for $22.85 on ebay, including shipping and handling, which will allow me to dip 2 cases of standard 1 quart mason jars. This brings the total expenditure per case of mason jars, including wax used to seal the rings properly, to $22.42. When I compare $168.00 to $22.42, it makes me wonder how I could ever save any money buying my tobacco in bulk, if I used the bail mason jars exclusively for convenience.
If I were to use them, the same way I use Tupperware containers for short term use, to store the tobacco I am currently smoking, they might be affordable that way. However, one thing I like about Tupperware style containers, is they are plastic, so I don't need to worry if I drop one on a tile or cement floor. Another thing I like about plastic, is that it is lightweight anytime I need to transport it.
I will agree that glass is superior for long term storage, but if we heat the jars, and take out all the oxygen the traditional way when canning, in order to get the button to drop and seal, then we are removing all the oxygen needed for fermentation. If we are storing aromatics and Latakia blends, the oxygen is not as critical, however most Latakia blends contain Virginias and Orientals, which can benefit slightly from a couple years in the jar.
I do wish the bail mason jars were more affordable, because they would make cellaring bulk tobacco a little less time consuming, than using the wine bottle wax to do it the proper way. However, if I am going to go to the trouble of buying my tobacco in bulk to save the money, I am going to go ahead and put forth the effort to jar the tobacco properly in the cheapest possible fashion. That way, when I finally get around to cracking a jar open, I will have saved some money over buying tin tobacco, while at the same time, having a quality aged tobacco to smoke, just as I would have if I took the easy way out and paid more for tin tobacco.
It reminds me of a classic letter I received from Blue Cross and Blue Shield a few years ago. "The current treatment is being discontinued, due to the fact that it is not cost effective."
At least if you buy a case of bail mason jars for $168.00, you can carry them back to Walmart for a refund, when you decide they were not cost effective, as apposed to your medical premiums, which you ain't getting back.
I found pint wide mouth jars for $12.99; I did not try to look for a lower price. A case of 12 will hold about 3 pounds of tobacco. For proper long term storage, when you aren't getting in and out of them, but leaving them stashed, that is not that much of an investment. That three pounds probably cost you $100.
It takes me about 15 minutes to jar up a pound of bulk tobacco.
Also, those are not what I normally use for long term storage but for blends I am smoking in my daily/weekly rotation. The exceptions are the 3 oz. tins of tobacco I buy like Peterson Holiday Season. I put those blends in the bail type jars for long term storage. If the rubber or silicone seal is in good condition, they will keep the tobacco moist.
For the record, I don't buy a lot of bulk blends. Mostly I buy the 1.75 oz. tins and move the tobacco into Ball 1/2 pint widemouth jars for storage.
@PappyJoe, I am one of those misers who usually only shops at Walmart, because 9 times out of 10 they use their power, to beat their name brand suppliers into submission. Knowing how efficient they are at turning major competitors into exclusively generic suppliers, I tend to assume that I am saving lots of time and gas, not driving around in circles.
@judandhispipe, I am actually advocating the exact opposite. If a container has no oxygen left inside, fermentation (aging) will not occur.
Sadly, some of the best bulk blends suitable for long term aging are very scarce right now. A 250 gram box of Sam Gawith Full Virginia Flake, usually goes for around $90, and that quantity is just a little more than a half pound. Conversely, you can get a pound of Billy Budd for around $35, but it's potential to age is drastically less than the Sam Gawith flakes.
As for jarring time, I can jar up flakes, a lot faster than I can jar up ribbon cuts, since the flakes already have the bejesus pressed out of them. :^)
I still prefer the glass jars with the wire and gasket closing mechanism
Four two part lid Mason jars are six bucks.
I will also mention that when I first started putting my tobaccos in Mason jars I was worried about the moisture and drying out so I put humidity buttons in all of the jars and the tobacco was actually too moist. I found I had nothing to worry about and there is no need for the buttons. If the lid is keep tight, the moisture pretty much stays the same, and that is here in Montana with very low humidity. I have since removed all of the humidity buttons from the jars. If you get a tobacco in a pouch or from?? that is too dry, then you can put a button in and rehydrate the tobacco to your preferred moisture level.
As a side note/observation, I noticed that I could smell fresh tobacco emanating from my cabinet. This perplexed and worried me trying to figure out which jars were not sealed and hence possibly drying out. I determined that since my jars are not actually vacuum sealed, they were "breathing" with temperature/pressure changes. I would hear the jar lids "pop" occasionally. This should actually work very well for aging tobacco as there is some air transfer once in awhile. I just have to make sure they don't dry out because of it.
So far, I have had some jars for at least 4 years and they are not noticeably drier than when originally jarred. If I ever decided they needed a better seal, I would put the caps on lightly tightened and set the jars in a shallow pan of very hot 150-200 degree water for a few minutes, then remove them from the pan and tighten the lids down. Ultimately the jar will pull a vacuum and seal much tighter. Then they should only "breath" at higher than normal room temperatures, or until the seal is broken to enjoy the leaf once again.
Here are a couple links that should keep those who are interested busy for quite some time. Greg Pease, and Russ Ouellette (Willette) are masters of their craft, and can educate those who are willing to learn what they have to teach.
http://glpease.com/BriarAndLeaf/?cat=2
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=russ+ouellette+pipe+show&&view=detail&mid=74FD2DE4546C80A2C51574FD2DE4546C80A2C515&FORM=VRDGAR