@PappyJoe I now have 82 pipes ( you forced me to count them when you gave me your number ). I have sold a few pipes to some of the guys here at TPL after they contacted me requesting a pipe(s) that I had refurbished and displayed. I also will take 20 or 30 pipes to the local pipe show in February and sell them at more than fair prices. I don't do it for the money as much as a hobby, but what money I do make goes for buying more "pipes in need" and resupply me with items needed for refurbishing. Don't you just love this hobby? 😄
@PappyJoe If you're the same as me, it's tough to sell all the pipes you have worked on from time to time because it truly is a labor of love. But since my wife gives me the "stink-eye" every time she walks by my pipes, I've been steered toward the culling process. My objective is to reduce my pipe number to about half... That means approximately 40 pipes need to find a new home. I probably need to find an acquaintance in the area that's an eBay seller... Except for the Pipe Show in February, I'm not sure what direction to take yet...
Sweet. I just finished a 1938 dunhill oda and will start on a older stanwell designed by Tom Eltang they say. I will post some pics when finished with it. Not a big fan of the newer stanwells but I do dig the older ones.
First caveat, I am no expert. I have refurbished around 400 estate pipes though. That being said.....
I have used briar dust and cyanoacrylate, it works well and I hate that pink putty. Dye the pipe with the color you want with Fiebing's Leather Dye FIRST. If you do not, the cyanoacrylate will fill the wood pores and the pipe will not take the dye. With pipes that have big nasty fills go with a dark stain, or you can partially rusticate or sandblast the bad areas, or the whole pipe if you choose. If you have the sandblast equipment. I think KA9FFJ made his own hand tool for rustication? KA9FFJ posted pics here on this forum of a pipe he rusticated, it turned out well. I am not sure under what section the pics are in though? I have not used any other things for fillers, but I have used just cyanoacrylate to fill cracks. If it is a bad crack, I coat the inner chamber wall with pipe mud (fine cigar ash mixed with water to form a paste), burning/heated cyanoacrylate would be bad. I only do this to pipes I am going to keep for my personal collection for pipes with special shapes/stem logos/what-have-you. I don't use any varnishes or the like. I might, if I had a tried-and-true "secret recipe" like some pipe makers. I use buffing compound in (3) different grades and finish with hard Carnauba Wax on a buffing wheel. I have Halcyon II and Paragon waxes. They both work ok, buy they are not as hard and long lasting as Hard Carnauba Wax. They are more for a quick touch-up when I don't want to go to the garage. They would also be good for people that do not have access to buffing equipment and supplies. Hard Carnauba Wax will need touch ups, definitely not as good as whatever "secret" finishes the experts use. I have been afraid to use any varnishes or clear coatings because the ones I am aware of would soak deep into the stummel. Seems like a bad idea to me??
Good luck to you on that Bulldog, happy refurbishing
I’ve no doubt this question has been posted somewhere already but I cannot seem to find it.
I’ve been restoring estate Pipes for half a year or so, but I’ve only recently come across a handful that I’ve needed to sand down and fill. I have tons of wood stains from building furniture but I’ve read that people recommend leather stains (maybe Bc of chemicals?).
My two questions are: is it true that I need to use leather stains vs wood stains? And where can I find leather stains? I’ve checked local hardware stores but none seem to have them.
@Jdukes I would go with fiebings leather dye. And yes bc of chem. You can pick it up at most hobby shops. Like hobby lobby or some other chain. I perfer the alchol based stain to the water based.mbased.makes for a crisper color.
Thank you, @RockyMountainBriar, for the information. I may just stain it dark brown like you suggest & then take it to my local B&M for carnuba wax. (I've known my local tobacconist for over 20 years, and he'd be happy do it for me.) Sounds like I may have to rusticate at least part of the pipe if this doesn't hide it enough. I've seen those cool DIY nail tools that people make. I'm not very mechanically minded and probably wouldn't try to make one. Anyone know of where I could buy one for cheap? I know I could also use a dremel (which I'd have to buy).
Speaking fo dremels, thank you, @KA9FFJ, for your suggestions on using one. I know this is your weapon of choice for rustication, and I may just end up needing to get one.
You all are so helpful. I can't brag enough on this community. Well done!!
Well I'm going nuts not having any pipes to repair and/or refurbish! Pickings have really been slim lately, and presently I have ZERO pipes to work on. (- 10 pts @motie2)… So I'm putting it out there; Anyone with pipes that are crummy, crappy, whatever, and you're 50/50 whether to throw them away, DON'T... Inbox me and maybe we can work something out...
just grabbed a beautiful Nording the other day for a great price. The stummel is great and I can refinish it easily but the stem needs some major attention. There are some minor chips in it but the worst issue is a small hole (from biting too hard it looks like) that needs to be filled. Do you guys have any experience repairing holes in stems? If so what do u recommend?
Alternatively I have read that Nording makes their stems universal. Has anyone else heard this before? If true would it be better just to purchase a new stem from Nording?
Comments
I don't do it for the money as much as a hobby, but what money I do make goes for buying more "pipes in need" and resupply me with items needed for refurbishing.
Don't you just love this hobby? 😄
i decided to keep the Edwards for now. Going to dispose of 10 or 12 other pipes though.
@PappyJoe If you're the same as me, it's tough to sell all the pipes you have worked on from time to time because it truly is a labor of love. But since my wife gives me the "stink-eye" every time she walks by my pipes, I've been steered toward the culling process. My objective is to reduce my pipe number to about half... That means approximately 40 pipes need to find a new home. I probably need to find an acquaintance in the area that's an eBay seller... Except for the Pipe Show in February, I'm not sure what direction to take yet...
- Fills - what do you fill pits with? Wood putty? Glue mixed with briar dust?
- Dye - I've read I should use leather dye like Fiebing's. Thoughts/Suggestions?
- Tongue oil - to use or not to use? Isn't it basically just a varnish?
- Final polishing - carnuba wax on a buffing wheel? Could I get by with Paragon or Halcyon II or similar?
Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.First caveat, I am no expert. I have refurbished around 400 estate pipes though.
That being said.....
I have used briar dust and cyanoacrylate, it works well and I hate that pink putty.
Dye the pipe with the color you want with Fiebing's Leather Dye FIRST. If you do not, the cyanoacrylate will fill the wood pores and the pipe will not take the dye.
With pipes that have big nasty fills go with a dark stain, or you can partially rusticate or sandblast the bad areas, or the whole pipe if you choose. If you have the sandblast equipment. I think KA9FFJ made his own hand tool for rustication? KA9FFJ posted pics here on this forum of a pipe he rusticated, it turned out well. I am not sure under what section the pics are in though?
I have not used any other things for fillers, but I have used just cyanoacrylate to fill cracks. If it is a bad crack, I coat the inner chamber wall with pipe mud (fine cigar ash mixed with water to form a paste), burning/heated cyanoacrylate would be bad. I only do this to pipes I am going to keep for my personal collection for pipes with special shapes/stem logos/what-have-you.
I don't use any varnishes or the like. I might, if I had a tried-and-true "secret recipe" like some pipe makers.
I use buffing compound in (3) different grades and finish with hard Carnauba Wax on a buffing wheel.
I have Halcyon II and Paragon waxes. They both work ok, buy they are not as hard and long lasting as Hard Carnauba Wax. They are more for a quick touch-up when I don't want to go to the garage. They would also be good for people that do not have access to buffing equipment and supplies. Hard Carnauba Wax will need touch ups, definitely not as good as whatever "secret" finishes the experts use. I have been afraid to use any varnishes or clear coatings because the ones I am aware of would soak deep into the stummel. Seems like a bad idea to me??
Good luck to you on that Bulldog, happy refurbishing
I’ve been restoring estate Pipes for half a year or so, but I’ve only recently come across a handful that I’ve needed to sand down and fill. I have tons of wood stains from building furniture but I’ve read that people recommend leather stains (maybe Bc of chemicals?).
My two questions are: is it true that I need to use leather stains vs wood stains? And where can I find leather stains? I’ve checked local hardware stores but none seem to have them.
Appreciate your help!
Speaking fo dremels, thank you, @KA9FFJ, for your suggestions on using one. I know this is your weapon of choice for rustication, and I may just end up needing to get one.
You all are so helpful. I can't brag enough on this community. Well done!!
Well I'm going nuts not having any pipes to repair and/or refurbish! Pickings have really been slim lately, and presently I have ZERO pipes to work on. (- 10 pts @motie2)… So I'm putting it out there; Anyone with pipes that are crummy, crappy, whatever, and you're 50/50 whether to throw them away, DON'T... Inbox me and maybe we can work something out...
What a lovely offer. I hope some of our members take you up on it.
just grabbed a beautiful Nording the other day for a great price. The stummel is great and I can refinish it easily but the stem needs some major attention. There are some minor chips in it but the worst issue is a small hole (from biting too hard it looks like) that needs to be filled. Do you guys have any experience repairing holes in stems? If so what do u recommend?
Alternatively I have read that Nording makes their stems universal. Has anyone else heard this before? If true would it be better just to purchase a new stem from Nording?
appreciate the help