Restoring Estates...Tips and Advice

PipeProfessor

Got tips or advice for restoring estate pipes? Share it with us!

LostMason

Best tip I picked up is to use salt and white vinager to rid a pipe of ghosts rather than alcohol.
Also to use clear fingernail polish to build up a loose tenon and then lightly sand it to fit snuggly.

Kcwarthog

I use OxyClean when removing oxidization on vulcanite stems. I just put some hot water in a clear glass and a tablespoon of OxyClean and leave it set overnight.
Next day its all black again then I buff it to a shine.

drac2485

I am relatively new to restoring estate pipes as I have just recently started buying them.  I have found that Decatur makes some good products but generally I just use Everclear, a ton of pipe cleaners, paper towels, q-tips, and a pipe reamer for cleaning.  I still fight with oxidation on stems but plan on trying the OxyClean trick as I keep hearing about it.

PipeProfessor

Great advice guys!

Boatsn

What's a preferred and steril way of cleaning the stem of an estate pipe, I have been getting some at yard sales and am uncertain on how to get them ready for me to smoke, I go to a smoke shop about 50 miles away to have my repair work done, I guess I could ask them what to do, all suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks

PappyJoe

@Boatsn - what I have done that I feel comfortable with is to take a pipe cleaner and soak it in Everclear. I insert it into the stem and then move it back and forth for  three or four times. After that I put the stem with the cleaner still inserted into a storage back and let it sit for an our or so.

after that I do the Oxi-Clean method described above.

Boatsn

@PappyJoe, thanks Pappy I will give that a shot

PipeProfessor

I think I am gonna try the oxy-clean method next time, since so many are recomending it!

drfrankenstein56

I use a retort.... there really is no other way in my opinion to get an estate cleaned. if you have ever scrubbed a glass piece, to see it clear but still notice smell, its hard to eliminate the residue. Spending a bit time in a shoebox with an ozone generator clears a lot up too.

as for stems, I never ever use oxyclean. its a no no in automotive rubber restoration and I carry this over to pipes. use a buffer if its that bad. if you dont have a buffer i suggest you go and buy one at harbor frieght

PappyJoe

What I've learned about removing the oxidation from stems is to use fine grit sandpaper. Start with sandpaper at about 600 grit and work your way up to  2400 grit. You can find this type of sandpaper in hobby stores (Hobby Lobby or Michaels for example) That will polish the stems to a shiny black again. I've also read up on using rubbing compounds like the one sold by Mark Tinsky at www.amsmoke.com. He is one of the premier pipe makers in the country.

drfrankenstein56

@pappy that's exactly the method, or you can use greaseless compounds on the buff if your lazy like I am. 

PipeProfessor

I have heard the same @pappyjoe and @drfrankenstein56

Abreathawayfromglory

@pappyjoe they call it Micro Mesh it comes in sanding pads it goes all the way to 12000 grit. When I am doing a stemp I soak in Oxiclean for two hours then start at 600 grit to get the bulk off and then smooth all the way down to 12000 grit they turn out like glass. But man my hands get tired. And I have done a few really oxidized stems. The Worst was my omm paul ohh man it was bad 

Before after soaking in Oxiclean

After 

iamandrewx

our club has invested in a buffer and wheels... best investment ever. pipes look 100% all the time.

drac2485

Where do you find a buffer?

LostMason

I have a vari-speed dremel with a polishing kit,I can tak it any where or just sit on the porch.
I've used the sanding drum to remove cake buildup,but have to use a reamer to get the heel clean.
Right now I've a DG that I sanded all the finish off and haven't decided on what I want to use
to refinish it.Ideas mates,all suggestions are welcome.

PipeProfessor

@lostmason I need to invest in a dremel kit. I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight but I need something better. Do you have any reccomendations? 

drfrankenstein56

I use a full size 8" buffer from harbor freight. cost me 80$ with a coupon 10 or 15 years ago. I use the hell out of it, I buff pipes and metals and was worth the money. Compounds is where the moneys at, quality compounds make the job easier, faster cuts better coloring and longer lasting shine. Don't skimp on carnuba wax purity and hardness are important.

iamandrewx

there are 2 ways to do it, buy a variable speed buffer or buy a full speed and scale your wheel size down. we use a 6" fixed speed with 4" wheels. while not ideal, it kicks ass for what we need and runs at a reasonable speed to not burn your pipes as long as you're careful.

LostMason

@PipeProfessor ,Sorry for being a bit slow to respond here.What I have is a vari-speed
rotory tool from Auto Zone.Walmart hast a Dremel polishing kit for $20 . I like it just fine,
but I've only been using it for about 4 months.The rotory  tool only cost about 20 -30 bucks
but it is fun to work with.

PipeProfessor

@lostmason, no problem! Thanks for the response. I will have to swing by one of those two this weekend. 

Woodsman

The end of the mortice is usually square and not reachable by pipe cleaners or brushes. I use a thin wooden coffee stirrer cut square that fits the width of the mortice to remove the tar buildup that some pipes have. I've also used some narrow square end chisels that fit but, be cautious with them.  

Woodsman

Lost Mason, on that DG redo, I like the Peterson Dracula look of a Black body with a blood red rim. I've got a Nording 1/4 bent Billiard with a badly burned rim that's going to need a 1/4" removed and reshaped and a new band.

Mjhalbach

@pappyjoe, I use a similar sanding method only I get wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand the stem with water. I stop at 1500 grit and finish with stem polish on a Dremel with a felt wheel. The stems have always turned out great.

pipeman83

I need to get myself a Dremel with a polishing kit, I have a stem I'm doing from a pipe I just got and its going to take forever because the stem is pretty bad, I'm using TOM toothpaste because Rich Esserman suggested it, it works, but it takes a long time, especially if it has a lot of oxidation on it and its worked itself into the stem.

LostMason

@Woodsman I like that idea , right now it is stained a flat black using

leather dye mixed with alcohol to carry it in deeper , I need to get some good wax to

put a shine on it though.  

RockyMountainBriar

I have restored/repaired hundreds of pipes.  I have found that the NAPA Brand Professional Auto Glass Cleaner works great to remove the first nasty layer of grime from the pipe stem, the bowl exterior and bowl rim,  being very careful to keep the cleaner out of the bowl itself.  The Glass Cleaner is not quite as harsh as Everclear is to the finish.  After the glass cleaner I still soak the stem in Everclear to remove any residue....unless it is Acrylic (which Alcohol can haze), also one must be careful about soaking stems with inlaid stem logos as sometimes these will soften and swell if the stem is left to soak too long.  To start to remove the remaining oxidation I either use fine sandpaper (if really bad), buff with a buffing wheel (with appropriate grit compound for the level of oxidization), or for light or non-existent oxidization I use NOVUS  Step 2 Fine Scratch Remover for plastics (it is very similar if not exactly the same as the little tube of Brebbia stem polish).  I then wipe the stem with Everclear as well to remove any residue.  If the stem is dry looking, I will use some Obsidian Oil (which I believe to be just mineral oil?) to soak the stem awhile and wipe it off.  I have found that ButcherBlock wood restorer for kitchen butcher-block counter tops works well and is much less expensive.  The brand I have is a mix of mineral oil and beeswax and a few other compounds. For the final polish step I either run my buffer with hard Carnuba or just polish with Paragon Pipe Wax if I don't feel like firing up the buffer.