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Pipe refinishing

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  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    I now have the extension and stem step-sanded down and polished. I also bent the stem to compliment the pipe.
    But first, I sanded (220, 500, 800 grit) the rim and panels to remove varnish and stain.
    I plan on doing a 2-tone staining in those areas, but keeping those areas very dark to deemphasize the panels.?.? We'll see...


  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    I didn't like the  oversized look of the stem. The knob was too wide for the shank. I have had this happen before, and I think it's because I don't take into account the size of the extension AFTER it's been matched to the existing shank.
    Anyway, I have the stem now looking more of a match for the pipe. 
    I then stained the stummel black and gave it an alcohol wipe. I then gave it a light sanding using 600 grit, leaving most of the black on the panels. I also rebent thr stem giving it a softer, more curved appearance. 
    Waxed, buffed and polished.
    Here's the final:

  • motie2motie2 Master
    Beautiful….. as always.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    I have a Kaywoodie Super Grain with issues.
    As you can see, it is overclocked. Also, it has a very heavy cake build up, heavy stem oxidation, and the the worst problem is the hole located on the underside of the stem.

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Tips on fixing overclocking:
    If you thoroughly clean the threads inside the shank with bristled cleaners, etc., and thoroughly clean the flat metal surface of the mortise insert area, then your overclocking adjustment should result in a super fraction underclocked position.
    Reason: the heating used in adjusting the threaded tenon will cool resulting in a perfect fit.
    However, I did not clean those areas first, so I had to allow a slightly greater underclocked position:
      
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Next is prepping the stem for the hole repair. It is important to clean the area as much as possible, and to work the oxidation issue down to at least 600 grit.
    You do not want to be rough sanding that area after you have patched it.
    As you can see from the contrast, heavy oxidation...

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    This is a vulcanite stem, so I sanded fine residue off and old stem. I'll later be mixing it with a touch of super glue and using it for a patch...

  • motie2motie2 Master
    @KA9FFJ

    Very resourceful - the use of sanding particulates
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Tnx @motie2
    Time to patch that hole:
    Here are some tips you might find useful.
    Coffee stirrer, vaseline, super glue, vulcanite shavings = ready to go.


  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Cut a parallel slit about 3/8".
    Taper the end to a blunt point.
    Flatten as much as possible.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Give a LIGHT coat of Vaseline to the tip and insert into mouthpiece making sure the stirrer goes well passed the hole.
    IMPORTANT:
    Make sure Vaseline is confined to the inside of the mouthpiece. It's purpose is to prevent adhesion. The patch will not adhere if Vaseline is allowed on the outside of the hole.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Allow to cure...
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    I use mini files for initial reshaping :

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    After it starts to look fairly good, I start using 600 grit.
    Tip:
    I use a flexible filing/buffing pad and wrap a small 600 grit piece tightly around it.
    Put a very tight folding crease on one edge before folding ro allow button to stem coverage.

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    After sanding the stem with 600 grit, here's what I had...

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 16
    Since I had to slightly straighten the stem to unblock it from dried tobacco and tar, it was time to the bend back where it was. Here it is prior to rebending. The pipe cleaner is inserted to help avoid the air hole from collapsing. 
    Note: Never completely finish (buffing/polish) a stem before bending. The heating process will cause dulling and result in having to redo 2 or 3 micropads, rebuffing and repolishing...

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 16
    Time to strip the stummel:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 16
    It doesn't matter how clean the grooving looks around the bowl, ALWAYS clean it out. I use a dental tool and a small nylon brush (in that order).

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 16
  • @KA9FFJ That was some incredible wizardry you performed. It looks awesome!
  • motie2motie2 Master
    edited July 16
    @Danfriedman

    Concur! His restorative process is remarkable, especially because he allows us to see it…..
  • @KA9FFJ thanks for sharing the tips. Awsome work
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Tnx guys. Please note, I am simply sharing how I do things.  I'm sure there are many other methods that will produce similar, possibly even better results. These are just techniques that work for me.
    Also, on the average, for every one thing I show you, ther are usually 2 or 3 other steps leading up to that next phase. But to show you EVERY step/phase would take an all inclusive video.
    And since I'm not Brad Pitt, we'll just let that idea pass by... 😏
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 19
    Recieved some stummels in the mail 3 days ago. There was one that caught my eye because it looked like a pretty good piece of briar. 
    The tenon had broken off in the mortise so first things first, I removed it.
    Upon closer inspection, I noticed no "normal" stamping which did not surprise me. I'm used to noname stummels. But as I turned to the underside, I noticed "E. Christie" etched there. Didn't think much of it at the time and chalked it off as some guy who just decided to put his claim to ownership on his own pipe.
    I took a straight vulcanite stem and, after fitting the tenon, turned the base and fancied it up just a bit then put a bend to compliment the stummel. 
    It had been lightly stained and lightly used. Very little charring on the rim and almost no caking. 
    Cleaned it up (inside and out), restained it a very light tan and brought it back to life.
    After completing the pipe, just for grins, I decided to GOOGLE E. Christie. Turns out he's a pipemaker and owns  pipe and cigar shop in Pennsylvania. 
    He has a website and I found his Pic. 

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    Anyway, here's the final on the pipe:

  • motie2motie2 Master
    @KA9FFJ

    Here’s what I learned about E. Christie, the owner of a pipe & cigar shop in Pennsylvania:

    🏬 Christie’s House of Pipes & Cigars

    Owner & Pipemaker: Eric E. Christie

    Location: 56 W Main St, Waynesboro, Pennsylvania—a charming store that has served pipe and cigar enthusiasts for over 40 years  .

    Craftsmanship & Products

    • Handcrafted Briar Pipes
      • Each pipe is individually crafted in Waynesboro using aged Mediterranean briar, including rare Algerian wood dating back to the 1940s and 1960s  .
      • Christie apprenticed under the renowned Richard C. Johnson in the mid‑1980s before launching his own line  .
    • Custom Pipe Blends & Premium Cigars
      • Offers 100% natural, hand‑blended pipe tobaccos.
      • Stocks imported quality cigars from the Dominican Republic, Nicaragua, and Honduras—stored in optimal conditions (70°F / 70% humidity)  .

    Community & Reputation

    • Local Favorite
      • A beloved fixture in southern Central PA and western Maryland  .
      • Yelp and MapQuest note it as a “renowned tobacco shop,” praised for expert craftsmanship and warm hospitality  .
    • Customer Praise
      • Long‑time patrons rave about Christie’s Algerian briar pipes being some of their favorites and applaud Eric for being welcoming, knowledgeable, and helpful  .

    Why It Stands Out

    Feature

    Details

    Heritage

    Over four decades of pipe-making tradition.

    Quality Materials

    Uses aged briar from rare Mediterranean sources.

    Master Craftsmanship

    Eric’s skills honed under pipemaking legend Richard C. Johnson.

    Custom Blends & Care

    Hand-blended tobacco and proper cigar storage.

    Community Connection

    Friendly, knowledgeable, and locally cherished service.

    • Store Hours:
      • Mon–Fri: 9 a.m.–7 p.m.
      • Sat: 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
      • Sun: Closed  
    • Contact: (717) 765‑8129
    • Website: christiepipes.com

    In Summary

    Eric E. Christie is a seasoned pipemaker and tobacconist whose Waynesboro shop, Christie’s House of Pipes & Cigars, offers a unique blend of craftsmanship, quality, and community atmosphere. Whether you’re looking for a finely made handcrafted pipe, a special tobacco blend, or expert guidance, Christie’s delivers on all fronts.


  • opipemanopipeman Master
    @KA9FFJ;
    Brad Pitt should be so lucky.
  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    @motie2
    I find myself left with the question, "How did I wind up with one of his pipes?"
    You would think, as expensive as they are, the owner would have tried to get it repaired...
    I guess, as the old saying goes, their loss was my gain. It really is a nice piece of briar...

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 21
    Have an old Willard Pot that had the stem bit in two and chattered to death:

  • KA9FFJKA9FFJ Master
    edited July 21
    Decided to use the stem and turn it into a semi "nose warmer".
    Started by squaring off the broken end...

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