I now have the extension and stem step-sanded down and polished. I also bent the stem to compliment the pipe. But first, I sanded (220, 500, 800 grit) the rim and panels to remove varnish and stain. I plan on doing a 2-tone staining in those areas, but keeping those areas very dark to deemphasize the panels.?.? We'll see...
I didn't like the oversized look of the stem. The knob was too wide for the shank. I have had this happen before, and I think it's because I don't take into account the size of the extension AFTER it's been matched to the existing shank. Anyway, I have the stem now looking more of a match for the pipe. I then stained the stummel black and gave it an alcohol wipe. I then gave it a light sanding using 600 grit, leaving most of the black on the panels. I also rebent thr stem giving it a softer, more curved appearance. Waxed, buffed and polished. Here's the final:
I have a Kaywoodie Super Grain with issues. As you can see, it is overclocked. Also, it has a very heavy cake build up, heavy stem oxidation, and the the worst problem is the hole located on the underside of the stem.
Tips on fixing overclocking: If you thoroughly clean the threads inside the shank with bristled cleaners, etc., and thoroughly clean the flat metal surface of the mortise insert area, then your overclocking adjustment should result in a super fraction underclocked position. Reason: the heating used in adjusting the threaded tenon will cool resulting in a perfect fit. However, I did not clean those areas first, so I had to allow a slightly greater underclocked position:
Next is prepping the stem for the hole repair. It is important to clean the area as much as possible, and to work the oxidation issue down to at least 600 grit. You do not want to be rough sanding that area after you have patched it. As you can see from the contrast, heavy oxidation...
Give a LIGHT coat of Vaseline to the tip and insert into mouthpiece making sure the stirrer goes well passed the hole. IMPORTANT: Make sure Vaseline is confined to the inside of the mouthpiece. It's purpose is to prevent adhesion. The patch will not adhere if Vaseline is allowed on the outside of the hole.
After it starts to look fairly good, I start using 600 grit. Tip: I use a flexible filing/buffing pad and wrap a small 600 grit piece tightly around it. Put a very tight folding crease on one edge before folding ro allow button to stem coverage.
Since I had to slightly straighten the stem to unblock it from dried tobacco and tar, it was time to the bend back where it was. Here it is prior to rebending. The pipe cleaner is inserted to help avoid the air hole from collapsing. Note: Never completely finish (buffing/polish) a stem before bending. The heating process will cause dulling and result in having to redo 2 or 3 micropads, rebuffing and repolishing...
Tnx guys. Please note, I am simply sharing how I do things. I'm sure there are many other methods that will produce similar, possibly even better results. These are just techniques that work for me. Also, on the average, for every one thing I show you, ther are usually 2 or 3 other steps leading up to that next phase. But to show you EVERY step/phase would take an all inclusive video. And since I'm not Brad Pitt, we'll just let that idea pass by... 😏
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But first, I sanded (220, 500, 800 grit) the rim and panels to remove varnish and stain.
I plan on doing a 2-tone staining in those areas, but keeping those areas very dark to deemphasize the panels.?.? We'll see...
Anyway, I have the stem now looking more of a match for the pipe.
I then stained the stummel black and gave it an alcohol wipe. I then gave it a light sanding using 600 grit, leaving most of the black on the panels. I also rebent thr stem giving it a softer, more curved appearance.
Waxed, buffed and polished.
Here's the final:
As you can see, it is overclocked. Also, it has a very heavy cake build up, heavy stem oxidation, and the the worst problem is the hole located on the underside of the stem.
If you thoroughly clean the threads inside the shank with bristled cleaners, etc., and thoroughly clean the flat metal surface of the mortise insert area, then your overclocking adjustment should result in a super fraction underclocked position.
Reason: the heating used in adjusting the threaded tenon will cool resulting in a perfect fit.
However, I did not clean those areas first, so I had to allow a slightly greater underclocked position:
You do not want to be rough sanding that area after you have patched it.
As you can see from the contrast, heavy oxidation...
Very resourceful - the use of sanding particulates
Time to patch that hole:
Here are some tips you might find useful.
Coffee stirrer, vaseline, super glue, vulcanite shavings = ready to go.
Taper the end to a blunt point.
Flatten as much as possible.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure Vaseline is confined to the inside of the mouthpiece. It's purpose is to prevent adhesion. The patch will not adhere if Vaseline is allowed on the outside of the hole.
Tip:
I use a flexible filing/buffing pad and wrap a small 600 grit piece tightly around it.
Put a very tight folding crease on one edge before folding ro allow button to stem coverage.
Note: Never completely finish (buffing/polish) a stem before bending. The heating process will cause dulling and result in having to redo 2 or 3 micropads, rebuffing and repolishing...
Concur! His restorative process is remarkable, especially because he allows us to see it…..
Also, on the average, for every one thing I show you, ther are usually 2 or 3 other steps leading up to that next phase. But to show you EVERY step/phase would take an all inclusive video.
And since I'm not Brad Pitt, we'll just let that idea pass by... 😏